First posting here.
My 1975 R90/6, now in my 28th year as second owner, needs the front brake switch replaced. Other than that the bike runs as sweet as a nut, just as it has all these years. It is ridden often.
I have confirmed that the switch remains open circuit when pressure is applied. I have the OEM replacement part and have confirmed that it goes closed circuit when pressure is applied - I used a small rod to test.
My question is: How do I remove the old switch. There is no obvious place for a counterhold to prevent damage as I try to remove the old switch with a 22mm wrench, and I am reluctant to use penetrating oil for fear of compromising the brake fluid. The old one seems to be pretty tight and I am trying to avoid having to remove the whole master cylinder/reservoir assembly.
Thank you for any help you can offer.
1975 R90/6 front brake switch replacement
1975 R90/6 front brake switch replacement
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Re: 1975 R90/6 front brake switch replacement
Aren't you going to have to bleed the brakes after the switch change? Seems to me that a little penetrant, and it would be small, will be flushed out at that point.
What about holding the master cylinder in place with the existing hose clamp...wouldn't that be enough of a hold to turn the switch off?
Kurt in S.A.
What about holding the master cylinder in place with the existing hose clamp...wouldn't that be enough of a hold to turn the switch off?
Kurt in S.A.
Re: 1975 R90/6 front brake switch replacement
You could grab the body of the MC with a pair a slip joint or water pump pliers to keep it from rotating. You probably won't lose enough fluid to require bleeding the systems as the flow will be outward no air coming in.
1974 R90/6 built 9/73
1987 BMW K75S
1994 BMW R1100RS
1964 T100SR Triumph
1986 Honda XL600R
1987 BMW K75S
1994 BMW R1100RS
1964 T100SR Triumph
1986 Honda XL600R
Re: 1975 R90/6 front brake switch replacement
Loosen the m/c band clamp, slide the m/c slightly rearward, re-tighten the clamp. The switch is fitted with a tapered thread to keep it from leaking, so of course it seems tight. Unscrew the old switch and then install the new switch. Tighten only enough to keep it from leaking.
Put the m/c back where it was originally.
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !