So I permanantly blocked my oil filter bypass

[ME 109]

Such is my determination, I bought a Z411 oil filter with internal bypass, and anti back flow. Suits 06 mitsubishi 2.0 litre. I couldn't remember the Z386 Wobbly suggested, at the time.
The overall dimensions are 70 diametre x 85 long. Just right.
But I remembered what Claude said about media type and oil type. So I looked up filters for '80 Corolla which lists a Z158. Would you believe I threw one away the other day because I didn't know what it was off!
Anyway, I'm thinking the difference between Z411, Z386, and the early Z158 is the media, and that an '80 Corolla would have run 20/50 oil?
If I can source a filter built for 20/50, and it has at least the bypass function if not the anti drain back as well, will this be the ideal?
May as well get it as right as possible.

The inlet and outlet holes/area of any of the above filters is significantly more than the inlet/outlet holes in the airhead oil galleries, so there's no restriction there, imo. The bypass in these spin on filters should be able to pass anything the 247 oil pump can throw at it.
'Scuse me if I'm stating as new information, things you blokes have already said.

What's that 'small hole' in the cover, Claude? I can't remember if my thermostat has three holes like that.
Two holes good! But three holes needs investigating. Edit, Thermostat has two holes, thanks google images.

Hmm, now I'm looking at the section of thermostat where the oil lines bolt to. I think I see an issue....

[Wobbly]

If I can source a filter built for 20/50, and it has at least the bypass function if not the anti drain back as well, will this be the ideal?

I think cold 20/50 simply "pops" the bypass valve internal to the spin-on filter when the oil is viscous. However, new BMW and Triumph motorcycles run 20/50, and both utilize a small spin-on filter. Check those out for a comparative "base line".

Here are the PNs for the R1100 Oilhead...
Purolator* PL-10241
NAPA 1348
AC Delco PF-53
Mobile 1 - M1-102
Wix 51348
WalMart Super Tech ST-3614
Fram - 3614

* Purolator is the highest rated filter in the list. They supplied filters for BMW in North America.

[gspd]

WOW! I'm getting a headache.
This is all way too complicated and nobody seems to know exactly what the long term pros and cons of an unproven and untested modified system will be.

Will all your oil get filtered all the time?
Will your cooler or filter blow up from too much pressure?
Will the external filter and plumbing get damaged or leak during your off-road escapades?
Maybe you should explore the possibility of repairing your original by-pass that served you so well for decades.

I don't have a block within easy reach, but maybe there's enough meat to re-tap the original by-pass hole one size larger and make a new insert to hold the ball and spring?
Always remember, airhead rule # 1, K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid)

[ME 109]

Thanks Guys, for your efforts.
I was going to write just that, Claude. Headache material for sure.
Not having the thermostat or the non thermostat cover in my hands to analyse makes it difficult to see exactly what can and can't be done.
For sure the modified filter cover/external filter options need exploring, due to the less than ideal situation currently in place.

I did attempt to repair the the bypass by creating another seat, using the threaded part of a neutral switch.
That idea involved running a 12x1.5 mm thread all the way to the bottom of the bypass cavity, so I could screw the 'piece' from the neutral switch all the way to the bottom of the cavity, creating a new seat.
If you look at a neutral switch, you'll see the end of the threaded section has what's needed. Correct thread, with a hole in the middle. I'd need to turn off about 3-4mm off the end, and then be able to screw the piece all the way to the bottom of the cavity. End result, a new spring seat in an albeit shorter bypass cavity. Oe ball and retainer could be used, with a shorter spring to suit. I abandoned that idea due to the difficulty of getting the new thread all the way to the bottom of the cavity. That option could still be explored.
I did consider enlarging the cavity diametre to install a specially made bypass unit. That could also still be an option. The risk with these options was completely futzing the bypass cavity.

Plumbing and filter placement for the remote filter option would be safe from 'escapade damage', or so it appears.

I'll pull the thermostat off my bike and see if it can be modified to suit. If not I'll get hold of a non thermostat cover and see what can be done there. If these two options fail in the design stage, I'll either have to run the way it is with blocked by pass, or fix the bypass.

All the ideas put forward by you guys are valuable, because it allows us to explore all the possibilities.

[gspd]

I abandoned that idea due to the difficulty of getting the new thread all the way to the bottom of the cavity.

Maybe a flat ended tap (bottoming tap) would work.

If there's enough meat around the original hole, you could use a helicoil or case saver type threaded insert and reinstall the OE ball and spring in it.

[ME 109]

Even a bottoming tap would need to be ground to make it an absolute bottoming tap. I need to get every millimetre possible threaded to keep the cavity as deep as possible.
I made a tap from a hardened and lengthened bolt but gave up on it realising that a proper tap was the only way.

I need to maintain the existing cavity diameter in order for the oe ball to work.

There is almost nothing left of the spring seat in the cavity as the ball thrashing around in there stuffed it.
There is very little meat between the end of the bypass cavity, and the oil gallery immediately behind.
I initially thought a washer could be put in the cavity to make a new seat, but there is nothing left to support the washer in the correct position.
So the spring may not sit properly and the problem would reoccur.

Onwards.

[Wobbly]

Will all your oil get filtered all the time?

Presently all the oil doesn't get filtered all the time. Cold oil shoots past the by-pass valve anytime the oil is too viscous to pass easily though the filter. That's one of the valve's jobs. So why is this suddenly a concern ?

Will your cooler...blow up from too much pressure?

Since the cooler is already on the machine, and since we're not going to increase the pressure, exactly where is this question coming from ? It makes no sense at all.

Will your...filter blow up from too much pressure?

A list of spin-on canisters that work on the R1100 boxer engine has already been submitted. Are you saying the Oilheads run lower engine oil pressure or volume ?

Will the external filter and plumbing get damaged or leak during your off-road escapades?

This is a genuine concern. I'd highly recommend the use of factory crimped hydraulic hoses rather than something like automotive fuel hose retained with fuel line clamps. These reinforced hoses can be made locally or ordered to your spec once you know all the coupling requirements. Places like Summit Racing stock affordable, ready-made stainless braid exterior hoses for racing in your size/length.

[gspd]

Hi Wobbly -
Since there is no longer a by-pass valve (Jeff blocked it) , where is the excess pressure going to go?

The way the stock cooler is set up, only a small percentage of the engine's oil (pressure) is routed to it. If Jeff installs an oil filter instead of (or inline with) the cooler, on the original in and out holes of the stock cover, only a small percentage of the engine's oil will flow through it.

I thought Jeff's plan was to modify things internally so ALL the oil was going to be forced through the 'out' hole to his new remote filter, then through the cooler, before returning to the sump via the 'in' hole.. That' could definitely blow up the cooler and/or filter.

Not sure how much pressure it takes to blow up (distort) an oil filter but unregulated direct pump pressure definitely can.
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literature ... chTips.pdf)

The reason the return hole was enlarged from 2.5 to 4mm on the GS/Mystic cover plates was to lower the pressure in the cooler circuit. Our oil coolers are simply basic radiators but without a rad cap for pressure relief; most automotive rads are protected by the rad cap. (rad caps release pressure at 15-20 psi.)

[George Ryals]

ME 109 , if you can't get the hole threaded all the way to the bottom, just grind the last few threads off of what you will be threading into the hole.

[ME 109]

ME 109 , if you can't get the hole threaded all the way to the bottom, just grind the last few threads off of what you will be threading into the hole.

Gidday George, good to see you back!
This 'Piece' of neutral switch that I've identified as having the ideal dimensions to make a new seat will only be perhaps 3.5mm long. If you look at the threaded end of a neutral switch where the plunger pokes out, this is the end that I'd turn said 3.5mm from. What that would give me is something similar looking to the oe ball and spring retainer. I also though I could use an oe retainer for a new seat and screw it all the way to the bottom of the bypass cavity. The only thing stopping me from using the oe retainer is that it's made from ally, so possibly too soft to support the spring long term?
The brass neutral switch has the same thread, 12 x 1.5
So whatever I screw in there as a new seat will reduce the length of the bypass cavity by whatever the length the new seat is. If I'm to use this idea, I need every bit of bypass cavity 'length' in order to use the oe 8mm ball, retainer and shortened spring. That's why getting the thread and new seat 'bottomed' in the cavity, is important.

It's difficult to get a good look at the condition of the bypass cavity 'wall' and its ability to take a thread. It's been banged around a bit in there, and I wasn't overly filled with confidence by what I could see.