Where is the Leak?

[gspd]

O ring #7. The filters I have been buying for my '73 R75/5 have the sorta cone shaped rubber ends on them. AFAIK, you do not use the #7 O rings with these filters???

Correct, you don't use the #7 O-rings if your filter has a rubber seal on both ends.
I've seen a few cases where the old rubber seal stayed in the engine and a new filter (with its 2 new seals) was squashed in over it.
The older style filters like yours can be installed in either direction. The later filters are much longer and the oil cooler ones only fit in one way.
The 2 piece hinged filters were developed to facilitate installation on bike with crashbars or lower fairings but work the same way.

Also on my R75/5 with the rubber end filters, I know there is a gasket on the cover, but I can not remember if there is a white O ring. I have not had external leaks and never had any oil pressure issues that I know of in about 10,000 miles. I would need to pull it to be sure.

If your /5 is original, it has a bolt in the middle of the filter and no white o-ring, just a gasket on the flat outer cover.

FWIW: The two oil streaks makes me think the push rod tube seals.

I don't think that much oil would (or could) come out of the pushrod tubes even if the seals were totally obliterated.
The oil returning to the sump via the PR tubes is a pulsed flow; it would externalize more like a slow drip than a steady RPM related pressure stream like in the video. I've seen that exact same leak many times and it was always filter related, and usually immediately after a well intentioned owner re-used his apparently good white O-ring.

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I've had problems with more than one jobber O-ring purchased from otherwise reputable suppliers.
I now use (and STRONGLY recommend) ONLY OE BMW white O-rings. (I buy 'em by the dozen).
In contrast, I've never had any issues with quality jobber oil filters, knock on wood.
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ALSO: To be clear.....The oil light came on at idle, BUT went out above idle right????
Low and hot oil could make the light come on at idle. Meaning MAYBE there was enough oil to lube the engine?

It's not that uncommon for the oil light to flicker a bit at low idle on an older bike when it's real hot, especially after a good beating;
That said, a knock is a knock, regardless of what led to it.
If the light stays solidly 'ON' at any time, you've got a problem; Insufficient pressure, crappy oil, no oil, or a faulty switch.

[Tom H Ca]

On my /5, it has the triangle shaped cover with 3 bolts and a gasket and then a inner cover with 1 bolt in the middle. I looked at my Clymer manual and it does not show the white O ring, just the #7's. With the new filters with the rubber ends, I just slide the filter in, no extra O rings.

I looked at the video again, I see that it's flowing out. Could it be that the OP used the #7 O rings as well as a hinged filter (I think he mentioned the hinged filter) with the rubber ends?

Yes there is quite a bit of noise. Probably a big end?

Thank you!!!!!!
Tom

[jackonz]

Ouch, that is sounding like a big end bearing has gone, just hope the crankshaft is not damaged but I very much doubt it, good luck.

[kmisterk]

I’ve discovered somewhat recently that the oil leakage is likely not related to the noise at all. It is likely from me not realizing that the paper gasket that comes with many dealer-provided oil change kits is not actually needed and can cause leaks. It’s odd, cause it hasn’t before, but it makes sense now.

I have yet to further troubleshoot anything in the bike as I’ve been busy with work and need to coordinate a tow over to my dads, where any major work will be performed. Their busy season is winding down so expect updates within a couple weeks at most.

We are planning to replace the connector rod bearing shells, and all the gaskets and seals along the way.

I’m sincerely hopeful that it’s not a main crankshaft front/rear bearing.

[Rob Frankham]

On my /5, it has the triangle shaped cover with 3 bolts and a gasket and then a inner cover with 1 bolt in the middle. I looked at my Clymer manual and it does not show the white O ring, just the #7's. With the new filters with the rubber ends, I just slide the filter in, no extra O rings.

I looked at the video again, I see that it's flowing out. Could it be that the OP used the #7 O rings as well as a hinged filter (I think he mentioned the hinged filter) with the rubber ends?

Yes there is quite a bit of noise. Probably a big end?

Thank you!!!!!!
Tom

Tom,

This thread refers to the later form of oil cooler cover fitted from 1977 model year (/7). The cover fitted prior to that is completely different. The large 'O' ring and shim are not used and the only form of seal is the fibre gasket under the outer cover.

Rob

[gspd]

This thread refers to the later form of oil cooler cover fitted from 1977 model year (/7). The cover fitted prior to that is completely different. The large 'O' ring and shim are not used and the only form of seal is the fibre gasket under the outer cover.

As far as I know, there have been 4 types of airhead oil filter covers and all are easily distinguishable at a glance.
1- flat cover. gasket only.
2- concave covers.(like the one in OP video) O-ring, no gasket.
3- covers with thermostat housing bulge/cooler provisions. O-ring, no gasket.
4- covers with threaded bosses for cooler hoses but no thermostat. O-ring, no gasket.

Many cooler and thermostat variations were factory standard, but many were dealer/customer installed later.
These bikes are all now decades old and many have been modified so you can't go by the year and model.

[Rob Frankham]

Absolutely true... but... types 2, 3 and 4 are essentially variations on the same system to accomodate fitments of oil coolers. type 1 is a completely different setup (in terms of the outer cover) than the other three. The purpose of the post was to explain to 'Tom H Ca' why his /5 doesn't match the oil filter housing under discussion in this thread.

Rob

[Tom H Ca]

I thank you for the explanation!

Tom