Replaced clutch now tranny won't shift into gear

[RogueR100]

Hi all! I'm new here. Hope I can help contribute!! 1981 R100RT- I replaced the clutch, did nothing to the trans, reassembled it with the rear swingers or drive yet. Started it & went to check the clutch operation & it won't go into gear. I shut it down, pulled the shifter arm out to make sure nothing was wrong there, put it back in & still not working well. I did finally get it to go into gear but when I put it back into neutral (light was on), the output shaft continued to spin as if it were in gear & not just vibration spin. Didn't want to grab the flange & lose a finger. Clutch feels fine; adjustment feels & measures fine; it didn't clunk hard when it finally went into gear. I didn't put any gear oil in it yet incase I had to tear it down. And no swingers or wheel to roll it into gear. What could this be? I wouldn't think that just moveing the trans around would make a synchro or other part cut loose but who knows! Any advice would be great! Thanks!

[gspd]

Not enough info to really help...
Why was the clutch replaced ?
Was the transmission shifting OK before you replaced the clutch?
If the transmission WAS shifting OK before you replaced the clutch, put everything back together and it will shift as before.
It's normal for the output flange to spin in neutral if there is zero resistance.

There are no 'synchros' (or any other parts) in these transmissions that you might have unintentionally screwed up.
The worst damage you can do when pulling out the tranny would be a bent clutch pushrod if you're really ham-fisted. This would negatively affect the clutch action.
The pawl spring on the selector mechanism can break anytime but if it's shifting at all, that's not your problem.

To properly bench test these gearboxes you need a handle (like a bolt on the outer edge of an old clutch disc) to steadily spin the input shaft with your right hand while keeping a bit of tension on the output shaft with your left hand and then shift up and down through the gears with your third hand. The true test is when the bike is rolling down the road. These tractor gearboxes always shift better when spinning at real world load and rpm than on any bench setup.

ps. Does rear swingers mean rear swingarm?

[Rob]

Sure happy to see you chime in, gspd.
All I could come up with was did he use a clutch alignment tool when putting the new clutch/, flywheel together. But I seem to recall being scoffed at for wanting such a tool.

Remember that I am not the sharpest tool in the box. gspd is my input hero. I still think that your sideview mirror motor adapted to your headlight is genius!

[Seth]

Did you by any chance bang the output flange on the trans?
If so, the "protection plate" (part number 23 12 1 230 075) could get damaged and cause gear misalignment causing 2 gears to be engaged simultaneously, which will lock it up.

[gspd]

Did you by any chance bang the output flange on the trans?
If so, the "protection plate" (part number 23 12 1 230 075) could get damaged and cause gear misalignment causing 2 gears to be engaged simultaneously, which will lock it up.

Could you please elaborate? This does not compute.

[gspd]

Rob said: "All I could come up with was did he use a clutch alignment tool when putting the new clutch/, flywheel together. But I seem to recall being scoffed at for wanting such a tool."

This is my clutch aligning tool: I always have 2 on hand(s), You should always activate the clutch a few times before tightening down the trans to engine mounting bolts

[gspd]

I still think that your sideview mirror motor adapted to your headlight is genius!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agz6NdvqQTE
Since this video I wrapped the headlight surround with (hopefully permanent) charcoal metallic wrap because this area if painted is always getting stone chipped.

Untitled.jpeg (121.52 KiB) Viewed 707 times

I added grommets around the flasher stalks to prevent them from drooping downwards the way they all do when they age.
AFAIK My bike is the only one in the world to have these.

[Seth]

Did you by any chance bang the output flange on the trans?
If so, the "protection plate" (part number 23 12 1 230 075) could get damaged and cause gear misalignment causing 2 gears to be engaged simultaneously, which will lock it up.

Could you please elaborate? This does not compute.

GSPD...
Admitting my failure....
I was working on a trans from an R90S. Trying to replace the rear main seal. Bought the output flange puller from CycleWorks (was Ed Korn). Attached the puller. Put lots of tension on it, but the flange didn't budge. I decided (badly) to hit the puller in line with the shaft (not to the side), hoping it would pop, lightly at first, but then with increasing force. Instead of popping the flange, it drove the shaft slightly further into the case, damaging that plate. The trans didn't shift properly. Sometimes could get neutral, but when it got into gear, would lock as if 2 gears would engage simultaneously. I'm assuming a lot of end-play in the output shaft.

Took the trans to Bob's BMW in Maryland. They took the cover off and looked at it for several hours without finding anything. When they brought it out to me, I showed them how the multiple gears were engaged at the same time. They said it was all the time they could spend on it that day. Left it there. Came back the next week to pick up the trans. That "protection plate" was the only part that was damaged, but they replaced a couple bearings and the seals for good measure.

So that's my experience with it. I screwed up. Bob's fixed it. My hitting the puller, driving the shaft further forward in the case damaged the "protection plate" and caused the shifting problem.

[gspd]

My hitting the puller, driving the shaft further forward in the case damaged the "protection plate" and caused the shifting problem.

Not sure which type of puller you used and exactly what happened, but maybe your puller was not up to the job. I've literally removed hundreds of these flanges with my BMW OE tool and never had to use any type of impact force whatsoever. They always just pop off with minimal torque. Hitting the puller sideways would be a mistake, could bend or distort the flange. In your particular case I would have suggested you preload the puller as much as possible and then heat the flange with a torch. That would have popped it off. I've done that many times with success on countless other types of seized flanges.

[gspd]

DANG! Think I scared R100Rogue away. Not my fault. It's my OCD conflicting with my ADHD. There is no cure, sorry.