R100RS centre stand repair.

[SteveD]

Initial paint (off the shelf stuff wheel paint)...wait 5-6 days, sand, top coat in black then fit.

I'll leave the shortening 'til assessment of what I've done.

[dwerbil]

Nice work, SteveD. Now, can I send you my /7 for the same repair?

Your pic reminded me of minnows used for fishing......

[SteveD]

Haha...that's what I saw too!

This fix isn't that difficult. It just needs resources and skill or money! Like most things
You need a welder and skills, or someone you know that has a welder and skills.
You'll need an angle grinder with a flapper disc to tidy it all up.
You'll need a bench press drill and a 21-22mm HSS drill bit (the bush when new is 20mm)...or a friend that has that. I sourced a cheap bit (it was fine too, did the job) and it took a few minutes to drill the holes.

Up to 2/82 the fiche says the bush is the 11mm version without countersink. The matching bolt is also a flathead. M10x30.
From 2/82 the fiche says the bush is 13.5mm and is countersunk with a bolt that matches.

The countersunk version doesn't match very well, that is the bolt head is seated well out, with a gap. I'm wondering if that allows some give/movement, deliberate or not??

[Rob Frankham]

The countersunk version doesn't match very well, that is the bolt head is seated well out, with a gap. I'm wondering if that allows some give/movement, deliberate or not??

No, the 'rest' of the countersink is in the frame lug.

• The bolt has to be countersunk into the lug so that it doesn't foul the springs as the frame rises.
• in some cases, and in any case if the countersink in the frame lug becomes worn (or indeed the bolt), the countersunk part of the bolt protrudes through the frame lug and comes into contact with the bush.
• The integrity of the joint and, therefore, the security of the stand (such as it is) is based on the bush being clamped tightly against the frame lug. if the countersunk part of the bolt comes into contact with the bush, the bolt can't be tightened fully and the bush isn't held tight against the frame lug so is able to move against it causing rapid wear and distortion. The small countersink in the bush is to stop this happening

Rob

[SteveD]

Great info Rob, adding once again to the body of knowledge Thanks.

I'll head out and check the countersink on the frame first thing tomorrow!

[SteveD]

https://www.schweizerschrauber.ch/mot/r ... enterstand

[SteveD]

I finally got the tops of the stand modified, bit by bit. I didn't want to go too far! Initially the bike wanted to fall forward too easily so that needed sorting. It's good now in that respect, now easy to remove from the stand but stable enough.

However, whilst elevating the bike is a bit easier, it's still not easy enough. Next step will be to cut out the recommended 13mm under the cross bar and then re-weld to effectively shorten the stand.

Hopefully that'll be it.

[ME 109]

Good on you for having a crack at this repair Steve.
Shortening the stand deffo makes it easier to get it up on the stand.
My repair is still as it was when I did it.

[Rob Frankham]

I finally got the tops of the stand modified, bit by bit. I didn't want to go too far! Initially the bike wanted to fall forward too easily so that needed sorting. It's good now in that respect, now easy to remove from the stand but stable enough.

However, whilst elevating the bike is a bit easier, it's still not easy enough. Next step will be to cut out the recommended 13mm under the cross bar and then re-weld to effectively shorten the stand.

Hopefully that'll be it.

I would be a bit careful about shortening the stand. Yes, it makes it easier to get the bike on and off (although, with a properly fettled stand I've never found it a problem). The other side of the coin is that, on slightly uneven ground, the front wheel will come in contact with the ground and the bike will be unstable on it. The front wheel should be at least an inch off the ground when the bike is on a completely flat surface.

Rob

[SteveD]

Thanks Rob. ME 109 recommended 13mm (from memory) which left the fr tyre 3-4" off the ground. I've already done the cut and it was a slightly conservative 10-11mm.
The ID of the stand accepts a 20mm OD pipe for internal reinforcement. I have that ready.
The hold up is with me, co-ordinating with the welder. We're going on a 2000km mountain ride to the SE Oz alps starting tomorrow...so we'll get something planned then.