Oil filter bolt removal.

[SteveD]

Today I started an oil filter change...R100RS.

I couldn't get the top front bolt out as the allen key would slip within the bolt head. It worked fine on the other two.

I've removed the headers, and the oil cooler lines to improve access, but my vice grips can't get access. I hoped to get it out and replace with new.

The local BM privateers are busy doing their annual shop clean up today and tomorrow and close on Thursday for 3 weeks.

I can give them a call in the morning for advice, and maybe I can buy a tool that might do the job. I work tomorrow pm 1400-2230, then 07-1700 on Thursday, so I need a solution to getting the thing out tomorrow.

Any ideas?

Cheers

And have a great festive season ok!

[Kurt in S.A.]

Try some grinding paste...that helps things grip. Can you jam in the next size, or maybe the next size in SAE? Sounds like the bolt needs to be replaced so getting something in there just to get it turning is needed. Don't know if there's room to work, but a small EZ-OUT down the middle of the shank would give you some bite.

Kurt in S.A.

[dougie]

Penetrating oil and wait a while.
Put a punch or Allen key in the head and give it a few sharp raps straight on with a hammer.
Heat surrounding casing area.
All of the above plus -
Impact wrench/gun
OR
Valve grinding paste in the head with the Allen key
OR
With a file, carefully re-size a 6mm key down to the point it can be hammered into the +5mm head.
AND
Curse at it vehemently!

Smarter people than me will show up soon with more ideas.

[SteveD]

THANKS lads. I've already tried the grinding paste to no avail.

I've given it a decent whack, with the key in place.

I'll try heat in the morning. (00.09 here now) I might try the next size up, modded to fit, with paste added and another good whack too.

It's been cursed at...didn't work.

[Garnet]

THANKS lads.
It's been cursed at...didn't work.

Some German swearing is usefull for this type of work.

[teo]

Have you tried to cut a slot across the head and use a flat blade screwdriver in an impact driver (the old hand held type everone used on Hondas and such in the 60s and 70s)?

Teo

[guy]

Hammer impact driver with allen bit that is a little over size and some extensions to move out for some work room may just be the ticket.
Guy

[SteveD]

Thanks lads. Sorted.

I pulled the crash bar, the lower fairing and the oil cooler hoses all off and out of the way for max access.

I bought a pointy nose vise grip, some new bolts and the rounded bolt came off easy.

The filter has always been replaced with just an o-ring, no shim or gasket. It had been done like this for 5- 6 years.
The filter was last changed when it leaked just like this time, and I replaced it all as it was.

This time, I have the option of:
1. o-ring only again.
2. o-ring & shim
3. o-ring and gasket
4. o-ring, shim and gasket.

My bike has the round edge at the filter cannister. Shim is usually unneeded.
The cannister depth measures 4.0mm using a non digital caliper. That's at the wider end of Anton Largiader's chart.
http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/canister.html
That suggests 2 shims, no gasket.

I'm off to buy myself a digital caliper! I want to KNOW that cannister depth.

[SteveD]

Cannister depth measured with a digi tool is 3.75mm +/- 0.1mm measured at different points.

I'm going with 1 shim, white o-ring, no gasket.