oil temp/pressure gauge

[twist]

A question for those who use gauges on their bikes: is there a more or less simple way to install an oil temperature gauge? What is the more useful of the oil temp vs oil pressure? I have come to the conclusion that I don't need or want the clock and want to replace it with a gauge that gives me information about my engine. The clock is always on and I'm not sure I want that either. Given my special brand of thinking, voltmeter and oil pressure seem to be more useful than a clock.

[Kurt in S.A.]

Don't you already have info on oil pressure via the idiot light? Personally, know the actual pressure would probably just make me worry more. If the oil pressure light comes on at speed, the engine is just about toast anyway.

As for temperature, I also think that this is not very useful in general. The question would be where to have the temperature sensor in the oil. I've been concerned about oil temp, but I just make it a habit of keeping moving. If I see a situation where I'm going to be stuck in slow moving traffic, I just take a different route. You could replace your dipstick with the aftermarket thermometer...would save a lot of hassle if you really needed the info.

Kurt in S.A.

[Garnet]

I would not bother with either either, but if wou want to fill that hole in the dash then oil temp will give you an idea of how hot the engine is. If you are doing some radical tunning, you may want to consider a cylinder head temp gauge. It's sensor goes under one of the sparkplugs.

[Major Softie]

If you have one of the $2000 O-ring models, I'd definitely go for the oil pressure gauge myself.

As you can see, others can differ.

[twist]

If you have one of the $2000 O-ring models, I'd definitely go for the oil pressure gauge myself.

As you can see, others can differ.

I've never had trouble with the O ring at the filter, I try to do it the same every time as so far that's worked out fine! I kind of like the way the gauges look, I've got the dash so why not? I don't like the clock ticking away all the time though. I am trying to discover what is the best gauge to use if I am going to run gauges? I like the voltmeter. I would like to fit the speedo and tach in those little holes but that would make them small and I need glasses as it is. The look I'm going for is a sort of retro modified look. The little cockpit S fairing is nice after that big Pichler and the gauges fill out the "stock" look of that fairing.

[moosehead]

I have an oil pressure and oil temp guages added in addiotion to clock and voltmeter on my 82 RS...a bit of overkill I think for a bike with an oil cooler and pressure idiot light. Must have been bored a few winters ago when I installed them

To tell you the truth, I think it just provides more information for paranoia. Idiot light certainly gives warning re: oil pressure. Oil temp is kinda redundant with oil cooler equipped bike.

Made the dash up from, I think an old Wuedo dash, added two more guage holes and, voila, all 4 guages.



I wired up the dash and guages so its sort of plug 'n play with other dashboard bikes..I had put it on my 77 RS for fun before I sold it. I still had to swap over oil pressure and temp sending units but that's not complicated. Made sense to me on the non oil cooler bike as I liked to see oil temp and what factors impacted it. Oil pressure not so much as I have idiot light as well.

Here's dash/guages from 82 RS mounted on my 77 RS...


Now that the 77 RS is gone I'm thinking of moving my 4 guage dash to a 77 S I recently got...non oil cooler so am thinking an oil temp guage might be more useful..and throw in the oil pressure cause its there. Te beauty is the "RS" dash and "S" dash are interchangeable! We'll see...

In summary, I think oil temp guage might be more useful on non oil cooler bike and not so much the oil pressure guage info. I really think its info/parinoia overload but if you're looking for somwething to do over the winter why not?

FYI, the guages and sending units were all second hand units from my old neighbour at the farm we used to have. He had old bugs and westy's all over...great but eccentric guy but mechaical genius with those machines.Think I gave him $25 for the all the pieces needed...every fitting you need can come from VW aircooled bug parts!

[twist]

that's a fine looking motorcycle, moosehead! Well done!

[StephenB]

I too thought about the merits of oil temp vs oil pressure gauges on a non-oil cooler Airhead. Besides, I don't like the factory oil pressure sensor (digital output: red light or no light) and prefer the analog output of a pressure sensor on a gauge.
I choose pressure over temp, mainly for the one reason that I couldn't measure the oil temperature where it counts, at the piston. I.e., I could not figure out the relationship between oil temp in the sump (or wherever your sender is) and at the piston (linear/non-0linear etc). I did play around with it: I sometimes had 120C oil temp with the deep sump (pre-GS) and was very scared how that would translate into oil temperature at the piston. At the same time, the oil pressure was still above 40psi (60psi was "normal") which was a better piece of information.
The oil pressure represents the sum of various engine conditions, oil temperature being only one of them. Health of your oil pump is another.
My 0-160psi oil pressure gauge shows very high oil pressure when starting cold in Fall or Winter reminding me not to flog the engine when its cold. It takes a while even for an Airhead to get to operating temperatures (which results in oil pressure values around 60psi). I learned a lot form the oil pressure gauge and how to read it and utilize the information. It provides you with trends rather than accurate values.

Here is mine on my home-built R100G/S:




My vote: oil pressure gauge all the way.

[Roy Gavin]

Twist, the problem with the O ring is that it is only now that the canisters are starting to move, as the blocks age and loose their original temper.
I bought my GS from the states only BMW dealer, and was assured they had just given it a full service.
However, as they couldn't tell me what sort of oil they had used I drained it as soon as I arrived home, and changed the filter too.
There was was absolutely no compression on the O ring whatsoever, it actually had a twist in it , so if we are to charitable the canister must have moved in the 20 km between the service and me checking it..
There was sufficient pressure to put the oil light out, but my short test run and journey home was on a cold wet day, so the oil didn't get very hot or the revs high.

It take a minute or so the check the canister depth at an oil change and mine is still moving - if I had left it the way the dealers technician had fitted it and never checked it chances are I would have a scrap motor by now.

[twist]

Twist, the problem with the O ring is that it is only now that the canisters are starting to move, as the blocks age and loose their original temper.
I bought my GS from the states only BMW dealer, and was assured they had just given it a full service.
However, as they couldn't tell me what sort of oil they had used I drained it as soon as I arrived home, and changed the filter too.
There was was absolutely no compression on the O ring whatsoever, it actually had a twist in it , so if we are to charitable the canister must have moved in the 20 km between the service and me checking it..
There was sufficient pressure to put the oil light out, but my short test run and journey home was on a cold wet day, so the oil didn't get very hot or the revs high.

It take a minute or so the check the canister depth at an oil change and mine is still moving - if I had left it the way the dealers technician had fitted it and never checked it chances are I would have a scrap motor by now.

This is very disturbing news! I've taken very good care of my beloved beem and taken care to get things right when I work on them. I did once find the white O ring pinched after a oil change. The oil going everywhere was a dead give away. I do as much of the work as I can, is within my capabilities. The last time I let some one else install my clutch, he didn't torque the bolts and the flywheel came loose while I was on the freeway. Lucky 2 bolts held and it didn't grenade, only just. Back to the movement. You're saying I need to keep an eye on the canister inside the filter housing and the pipe? I fitted an oil cooler to the machine and so far no problems but now I'm concerned.