StephenB wrote:dwire, I was indeed talking about #2 and I wasn't saying it's an improvement, it's stock! In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with the stock /5 solution though. It has the headstock bearing pre-load locked independent of the upper triple before everything else is assembled. The dome nut (#1) in that case is only decoration (apart from holding the steering dampener). I can remove it without loosing the headstock bearing preload adjustment on the/5. Try that on the latter solution.
In fact the latter solution - slotted round nut - appears inferior as it is locked by tightenting the dome nut with the steel plate (you can't call that a triple tree, can you!) acting as a big 4mm washer.
Replacing the more elegant /5 solution (round nut with pin hole and lock ring) with the latter slotted round nut: looks like cost saving to me and in my opinion, is inferior to the earlier /5 solution.
Thank you for the reply, clarification and explanation. I aggravate enough people for different reasons; one because I have been "collecting" answers and opinions for the day when I am at that stage in the process so I either A) Already know what to do or B) at least know I can search my own threads to find the answers for I've already inquired about them once. (Hopefully everyone will see this pay off if I am ever able to get my rebuild back up off the ground here.)
I completely understand what you are saying in your first paragraph. Not only is it a no-brainer that a thick top triple tree clamp hypothetically should help stiffen the entire assembly once the geometry is set and everything is properly torqued. Where you sort of lost me (and I apologize for my awkwardness) is your second paragraph. Wait, I think I see, you are reinforcing you do not care for the later model solution that being the slotted and threaded ring encapsulated Simply by the top nut itself? There are others that tout the merits of the later model apparatus AND I am sure from their own experiences with/for good reason, but I can say from a neophyte's perspective, I can agree being able to tear essentially everything down on the front end and know I had not messed with the preload of the head bearings (due to the old two clamp design) was one less thing for me to worry about "getting right." I don't imagine the steering head bearings are all that hard to set themselves, but if everything essentially totally comes apart with the newer style head bearing assembly, that adds one more layer of work and potential for error to a BMW M/C shade tree mechanic like me to deal with.
Thank you much for your tolerance and sorry about stuffing a pic in there, but I could think of no other way of conveying my question. I don't imagine head bearing preload is much more difficult to get correct than any other common sense sort of inner/outer cone and race bearings, but having the entire front end sort of drop on the floor (metaphorically speaking) surely would be more daunting than what I dealt with when I took a look at my warn out and tired forks the last time from an evaluation standpoint...