I dumped a $265 into the latest greatest electronic ignition at the time.The Omega. It only performed so so and with about 10k miles on it the Omega came to its end. I went back to points (had to to get home) and found the bike actually ran better on the points than it did on the electronic ignition. Well to be fair I did replace the timing chain so timing was no longer just a guess which mark to go by. Yea you have to set them from time to time and replace them occasionally, but aren't out a lot of money when they go toes up.
Besides I think in the case of an EMP i might have a better chance of having some transportation, at least until the gasoline then food runs out. I wonde if an EMP would fry the diode board?
1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
For a twin plug you need a curve that gives you standard static timing and full advance at about 28 degrees at around 3500/4000 revs.
I think that the design fault in the Omega ignitions was to place the electronic box that did all the hard work inside the timing chest, where it too hot, the other ignitions talked about all place this box outside the engine in the cool.
I think that the design fault in the Omega ignitions was to place the electronic box that did all the hard work inside the timing chest, where it too hot, the other ignitions talked about all place this box outside the engine in the cool.
Charles
Replica 1070 R90/S (based on 82 RT)
1975 R90/6
Replica 1070 R90/S (based on 82 RT)
1975 R90/6
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
i am gonna leave the points on, if at all possible.
In an indulgence of thought, I think a electro magnetic pulse, however unlikely would take out every electrical circuit; unless hardened against such things by encasement in a lead shroud, which is too dense for energetic particles to pass through. best to just make a lead blanket and drape over the bike.
In an indulgence of thought, I think a electro magnetic pulse, however unlikely would take out every electrical circuit; unless hardened against such things by encasement in a lead shroud, which is too dense for energetic particles to pass through. best to just make a lead blanket and drape over the bike.
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
i am gonna leave the points on, if at all possible.
In an indulgence of thought, I think a electro magnetic pulse, however unlikely would take out every electrical circuit; unless hardened against such things by encasement in a lead shroud, which is too dense for energetic particles to pass through. best to just make a lead blanket and drape over the bike.
In an indulgence of thought, I think a electro magnetic pulse, however unlikely would take out every electrical circuit; unless hardened against such things by encasement in a lead shroud, which is too dense for energetic particles to pass through. best to just make a lead blanket and drape over the bike.
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
You may also want to line your helmet with foil to be on the safe side.jgleadle wrote:i am gonna leave the points on, if at all possible.
In an indulgence of thought, I think a electro magnetic pulse, however unlikely would take out every electrical circuit; unless hardened against such things by encasement in a lead shroud, which is too dense for energetic particles to pass through. best to just make a lead blanket and drape over the bike.
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
my helmet is made out of aluminum foil, not that effective in a crash. but hey no one can read my thoughts.
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
my helmet is made out of aluminum foil, not that effective in a crash. but hey no one can read my thoughts.
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
Maybe a one horsepower horse would be impervious to an emp?
to undegrade the thread, i had a dyna ignition on my 1975 r75 and it worked pretty well, except for the time the little setscrew let go and the timing went totally off. Worse thing was I had been razzing a friend for having a honda that wouldn't run with a dead battery on that ride , then I had to get towed home by a motoguzzi.
I am considering keeping the points and running the Dyna ignition booster. The points should last longer running on less voltage I would think. And I could cover it with tin foil just in case. Or mount it under the seat and maybe the lead in my arse would protect it.
to undegrade the thread, i had a dyna ignition on my 1975 r75 and it worked pretty well, except for the time the little setscrew let go and the timing went totally off. Worse thing was I had been razzing a friend for having a honda that wouldn't run with a dead battery on that ride , then I had to get towed home by a motoguzzi.
I am considering keeping the points and running the Dyna ignition booster. The points should last longer running on less voltage I would think. And I could cover it with tin foil just in case. Or mount it under the seat and maybe the lead in my arse would protect it.
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
I had a point booster on one of my boats and an old Benz with factory transistor ignition (same as a booster). I had to mess with the points on those two as much as standard points. First of all you still need to keep them gaped, but the problem I ran into was the points developed resistance and had to be cleaned fairly often. It seems that there was not enough current passing through them to keep the contact surface clean. I seemed to have to replace the points just as often as a stock set up, even though they looked good.pmonk wrote: I am considering keeping the points and running the Dyna ignition booster. The points should last longer running on less voltage I would think. And I could cover it with tin foil just in case. Or mount it under the seat and maybe the lead in my arse would protect it.
jgleadle:
If you plan on leaving points in the stock location while running a crank trigger ignition on an airhead, remove the advance unit. If your aftermarket ignition fails you will have to pop off the front cover to replace the advance, but that only takes a few minuets. If you leave the advance in place and you have a failure a few years and many thousands of miles from now, the advance will be stuck at max and the point will be mostly closed up. The bike will run like crap if it runs at all. That will take much longer to sort out on the side of the road.
Garnet
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Deleted User 62
Re: 1974 R90/6, Ignition debate, which one?
Garnet wrote: "If you leave the advance in place and you have a failure a few years and many thousands of miles from now, the advance will be stuck at max and the point will be mostly closed up. The bike will run like crap if it runs at all. That will take much longer to sort out on the side of the road." Great idea, Garnet! I carry all the stuff to retrofit my Omega ignition back to points, but hadn't mounted it 'cause I figured the points block would wear. Makes lots more sense to have it all mounted and adjusted minus the carefully lubed and ready advance unit...