Thought I'd posted this during the summer, couldn't find it though; frankly my work schedule has been so hectic I simply don't rember, regardless:
two years, and not many miles ago, I re-ringed the /7; my first time doing anything along those lines...was unaware there should be cross-hatching on the cylinder walls-duh,I know. Therefore, I'm now fairly confident the rings never seated-how could they?
So-what is the feeling here on the use of a ball hone vs the standard type?
cylinder hone?
Re: cylinder hone?
Haven't used a ball hone.
BUT
With a "standard" by which I suppose you mean one with 3 bars that are 4-bar-spring loaded...It is easy to use and get a cross-hatch pattern quite quickly. It should be turned a lot more slowly than a drill!!
I'm also assuming your cylinder walls are not otherwise messed-up.
Since you did not do the honeing when you replaced the rings, did you measure the bores to see if they were ROUND?
That could also influence how your new rings did or did not seat.
BUT
With a "standard" by which I suppose you mean one with 3 bars that are 4-bar-spring loaded...It is easy to use and get a cross-hatch pattern quite quickly. It should be turned a lot more slowly than a drill!!
I'm also assuming your cylinder walls are not otherwise messed-up.
Since you did not do the honeing when you replaced the rings, did you measure the bores to see if they were ROUND?
That could also influence how your new rings did or did not seat.
Clemson, SC
R100s, R75/5
R100s, R75/5
-
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:37 pm
Re: cylinder hone?
I would use and have used on other bikes , a ball hone...aka rabbit shit hone. Too easy to egg the cyliner with a bar hone or open up the diameter.
Re: cylinder hone?
Do a leak down or a compression test –
if the numbers are good ... you're good to go.
if not, then take it from there.
Only testing tell what you got.
Guessing is guessing, after all.
Using a ball hone will be a veritable crap shoot –
unless you are experienced with controlling manual "speed & feed",
a 4-bar hone is marginally better ...
if the numbers are good ... you're good to go.
if not, then take it from there.
Only testing tell what you got.
Guessing is guessing, after all.
Using a ball hone will be a veritable crap shoot –
unless you are experienced with controlling manual "speed & feed",
a 4-bar hone is marginally better ...

-
- Posts: 8900
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:46 pm
Re: cylinder hone?
Using a variable-speed 1/2" drill will really help you control the speed. A 3/8" drill will want to go way too fast.
MS - out
Re: cylinder hone?
Got busy trying to beat the weather here...thanks for the replies; cylinder is round and smoooooooth. I mentioned ball hone, specifically a flex hone: http://www.brushresearch.com/product-line.php?line=1
ever used one?
ever used one?
Re: cylinder hone?
Brush Research flex hones are good for putting a surface finish on a cylinder. A proper hone like a sunnen can correct alrz wrote:Got busy trying to beat the weather here...thanks for the replies; cylinder is round and smoooooooth. I mentioned ball hone, specifically a flex hone: http://www.brushresearch.com/product-line.php?line=1
ever used one?
tapered or out of round bore.
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:53 pm
Re: cylinder hone?
Apply lubricant liberally on the honing device. While lubricant base oil will work for this task. Mineral oil or lubricant specially designed for working cylinders operate properly. Slowly turn the lapping tool with the drill and pour oil on the surface of cont.
Re: cylinder hone?
Heavenrock-
I'm glad you resurrected this; here we are deep into February and my maintenance list remains undiminished. It will need to be a bit warmer in the garage for this project though.
I'm glad you resurrected this; here we are deep into February and my maintenance list remains undiminished. It will need to be a bit warmer in the garage for this project though.