Your opinions please

[ME 109]

Clutch push rod is easy to pull out and put back in. No need to lube front end of push rod. Rear end is lubed by gear oil in the tranny.
Replacing rear main seal and oil pump o ring and o ring under the guide ring would be best practice, but..........if nothing is leaking.......

[Zombie Master]

Now I have to decide whether to pull the clutch. I guess I would have to block the crank. Do you need a tool to re-install the clutch?

[Rob]

No tool necessary to install the clutch, except for the 3 extra long bolts with nuts partway up their shaft. These are for slowly releasing the tension of the spring, and then for reloading the tension. You remove every other fastener on the clutch pack, and replace them with your special bolts. Then you remove the remaining 3 fasteners, and then slowly back off the nuts on the long bolts. You may need to smack it with a small rubber hammer to break it free.

The only other special tool required is for installing the new rear main seal, if you do that. Take the new seal to the hardware store, plumbing dept., and buy a short piece of PVC the correct diameter.

To block the crank, remove the front cover, insert a longish screw in the front of the crank so it is sticking out far enough to contact the front cover, and then replace the cover and snug it down to hold everything in place.

[Zombie Master]

Thanx Rob well described.

Isn't there some alignment tool?

[Rob]

Oh yeah, there is one, and I had one for awhile (bought pre-internet).
Duane says you do not need one, that you can use the input shaft on the gearbox just as easily.
One would think that one needs to leave the fasteners a little loose, put the gearbox in place, remove it, and then tighten the fasteners the rest of the way? I don't know.

Others????

[jagarra]

Here is the correct alignment tool from Cycle works,
http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?mai ... c5c76b2122
I'm not sure how you get around not having one, when the pressure plate is installed there may be too much tension on the disc to move when the tranny shaft is installed.

[Kurt in S.A.]

When I changed the clutch on my /7, I didn't use an alignment tool. I eye balled the center of the disk. It's possible to move the disk around with only a little tension of the pressure plate. I believe the link to Duane's site suggests that once eye balled to near center, put the transmission in place as best as possible and then work it out to actuate the clutch. That releases the clutch disk and moves to align with the input shaft that has been started...do that a few times and you should be good to go. Worked for me.

Kurt in S.A.

[ME 109]

The friction disc leaves it's correct 'position' as a contact mark on the pressure plate.
This is what I use to reinstall the friction disc to its correct position.
Rob, I think the bolts used for removing the clutch are a 'flywheel bike' thing.
I haven't needed to use them on a 'clutch carrier' bike.

Make sure the centre piece of the diaphragm (clutch spring) is located and centred properly, before re fitting the tranny. Once the tranny is back in place, make sure the clutch rod can move fully forward and engage the hole in the middle of the spring before buttoning everything back up.

I had my tranny out again recently and it took three attempts to get it back in because the centre piece of the diaphragm had moved when I initially removed the tranny. This doesn't normally happen and I must have dislodged the centre piece from its 'keepers' when I first pulled the tranny. You'll see what I'm talking about when you pull the clutch components.

[SteveD]

Would a tool turned from hardwood work?
That'd be easy and cheap.

[melville]

Here's the homebrew clutch centering tool I made a few years ago:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=148&p=38610&hilit=clutch#p38610