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Thanks, I think that the plug is aluminum so a magnetic screw driver probably won't work. Do you think grease would hold the ball on the plug?

bluesman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 5:35 pm Thanks, I think that the plug is aluminum so a magnetic screw driver probably won't work. Do you think grease would hold the ball on the plug?

I thought it was steel but you may be right.

A magnetic screwdriver would certainly help in placing the spring and ball. I've used grease on the end of a screwdriver in many similar situations and I think it would do the job.. the important thing is to make sure the seat sits square and doesn't cross thread. A very gentle approach is needed until you are sure that the thread has taken.

In extreme circumstances, I've even glued screws to the end of screwdrivers with Cyanoacrylate (supeglue) to hold them steady.. but obviously you need to be careful to ensure that you don't block the hole in the seat if you do that.

Rob

Lay the bike over to assist, if you want.
Use a piece of uncooked spaghetti or a piece of wire to slide the spring down into the hole.
Grease for the ball, yes. On a dowel or similar. Or a piece of garden hose to send the ball down to the hole.
They should stay there if the bike's on it's side.
Grease on a big screwdriver to set the 'plug'/retainer. Plug to be approx .5mm below engine case.

I'd prefer to 'raise a bur' to retain the plug because I have no experience with red loctite in this application, which would require precision.
I burred over? just one corner, of one of the slots in the engine case. No pic sorry. A tool of suitable size and weight with a good hard sharp corner to contact the engine case. One tap might do it, maybe two. The bur does not need to be big. Just enough deformation to prevent the threaded retainer from backing out.

Check the bottom of the bypass hole, where the spring will seat. It shouldn't look damaged or uneven, imo.
Someone's been fiddling there if the retainer is screwed in too far. A bit like the phillips head screw on top of the tranny gets fiddled with!
You could have probably left it all together and just backed the retainer out. If done carefully, you could feel if the oe 'staking' was still effective by the retainer tightening near the engine case surface. Moot point now I spose.

I run my bike with a permanently blocked filter bypass as of 9 months ago. The bypass cavity had severe damage where the spring seated. Useless.
I change oil and filter at 5,000 k's. No issues thus far.

Actually I haven't removed it yet. I just backed it out to flush with the case. As per Barryh I was concerned about the condition of the spring but didn't want to remove it 'till new parts were in hand. I've just left it be and attended to other challenges like replacing the breather valve!

I should have read your first post........
I don't think the spring would be damaged or broken but....if you're confident with the restaking you will know exactly where things are at.

When I blocked the bypass after finding the spring broken again, I knew there was hopefully 'one' piece of spring missing in action.
I hoped that the piece of spring was in one piece caught up somewhere safe, and not smaller pieces that could get into the bearings. This turned out to be the case, the piece of spring was at the front main bearing in the main oil feed gallery in the carrier.
I knew it wasn't at the rear main bearing because I was able to check with a magnet through the oil pressure sender gallery that ran straight to the bearing. That left the bearing carrier...

I pulled the front bearing carrier a week ago because the bearing retaining pin fell out into my oil change pan.
It now has an M5 retaining pin with red loctite.