Boxerworks.com

While I'm waiting to hear re the state of the crankshaft, I thought I'd clean and inspect the casing.
This hole is the inner end of the drilling for the short stud that enters the casing at 8 o'clock (viewed from the front. When I first looked at it, the hole was partly covered with 3 leaflets of thin casing. There was a small hole, presumably where the fourth piece had been. I cleaned the three bits off. They were loose. Looking closely there appears to be a couple of possible loose bits outside the periphery of the hole, 6-8 o'clock. Potential problem averted, if this engine ever goes back together.


This is the oil pressure switch hole. I found some bits of cork way up there. The outlet at the other end is in the edge of the opening for the crank.


All cleaned and flushed, then cleaned and flushed again. Hot soapy water, rinse well, spray with degreaser, spray with brake cleaner. Tomorrow I'll have another good look.
In the meantime, I've done the outer casing with rub 'n buff. Took no more than 15 minutes.

If you have access to a compressor, a very useful accessory is a 'Paraffin gun' at least that's what we call it in the UK... not sure what paraffin is called in Oz... probably Kerosene. This is a form of spray gun adapted to spray a fine jet of paraffin (Kerosene... whatever) through a long nozzle. Spraying through the various oilways will remove any old oil, gunge, etc... along with any bits and pieces stuck in them...

Don't know if you are aware but the studs in the front of the block that secure the timing cover double as blanking plugs for the longitudinal oil galleries. Removing them will get you access to clean the oilways out. Refit with stud lock and seal...

I would think that the bits of cork must have been introduced into the oilway from the oil pressure switch port. It's most unlikely that they came from the sump. In order to get to that location, they would have had to go though the oil pump, then through the oil filter, then via the front bearing carrier and a long carrier to the oil pressure switch port adjacent, as you say, to the rear bearing feed. I don't think I'd be happy to run the engine unless I had made absolutely sure there was no other detritus in the galleries...

Can't wait to see how this turns out. I wish you smooth sailing!

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Sat Aug 29, 2020 9:15 pm Can't wait to see how this turns out. I wish you smooth sailing!

Be patient...it'll take a looong time.
It won't be a high end pristine flash resto, more a get the mechanics ok and stick it all back together and see what happens.

SteveD wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 9:11 am Question. Should the main bearing be routinely changed if it's removed?

If the oil was properly maintained the main bearing should last nearly forever. I wouldn't change it unless it needs it. I did change one on my 90S. Not particularly difficult, but you have drill the oil feed hole through the bearing after installation.
Mike

MikeL46 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 10:46 am

SteveD wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 9:11 am Question. Should the main bearing be routinely changed if it's removed?

If the oil was properly maintained the main bearing should last nearly forever. I wouldn't change it unless it needs it. I did change one on my 90S. Not particularly difficult, but you have drill the oil feed hole through the bearing after installation.
Mike

Thanks. The oil pump is badly worn but the crank was professionally declared very good. No evidence that I can see that oil delivery was ever a problem. I might keep it as is.

https://www.facebook.com/Boxerworks/vid ... 94504/?t=8