Boxerworks.com

ME 109 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 4:20 am

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Sun Jan 31, 2021 1:23 am Would the intermittent nature of my problem be exposed, while testing with the starter in the bike?

You talking about the bike?

Yes,

No, the intermittent nature of the fault means that it might or it might not happen at any given time and there is absolutely no guarantee taking the starter out of the bike will automatically highlight the cause, you need to identify possible causes and eliminate them.

FWIW, my prime suspects would be a bad segment on the commutator, followed by worn or sticking brushes and then a faulty solenoid but there are other potential causes and I wouldn't discount any of them until I had checked them.

Rob

So while researching starters, I found this comparison of direct drive starters (Bosch) vs gear reduction starter (Valeo).

Pros and Cons of Each Design

Power – Direct drive starters require up to 50 percent more electrical power to turn over the car’s engine than do gear reduction starters. This means direct drive requires more current from the car’s battery, larger battery cables are needed and other components are designed to handle higher current.
Weight – Gear reduction starters are smaller and lighter than direct drive models. When replacing a direct drive starter with a gear reduction model, there is more space around it, which makes installation easier and may improve heat-resistance of the solenoid.
Maintenance – Gear reduction starters have a higher part count, but internal wear is often less compared to direct drive starters since they use bearings versus the bushings common in direct drive starters. Misaligned or worn bushings are the most common cause of slow cranking of hot engines that use direct drive starters.
Cost – Direct drive starters cost about 20 percent less than a comparable gear reduction model. However, "soft-start" gear reduction starters may require the additional cost of a magnetic switch installed in the solenoid circuit. The switch is required due to high current draw when the pinion gear initially engages the ring gear.
Speed – In general, gear reduction starters turn more slowly at the flywheel end than direct drive models. However, because their torque is higher, they have a faster speed when pistons are at TDC on the compression stroke where it is needed most. This is why they are ideal for diesel or other high-compression engines.

I don't scrimp when it comes to my bike.
$1500 for a rear Ohlins shock.....no sweat
$600 for a new Corbin seat......no big deal
$1000 for a driveshaft every 100,000kms....routine maintenance
$300 for a new VDO Quartz clock...WTF
$400 for new Tourances every season...rubber is rubber
$300 for a top 'o' the line LED headlight..... great at night
BUT
$100 for a Chineasium starter that still always works perfectly after many years..... priceless!

I ordered the cheap Valeo style starter. I'll still have my old Bosch and I'll go through it and shelf it. In my workshop manual it actually states, first thing, that if you have a Bosch starter with a problem, you should switch to a Valeo. I should have it in a few days. I'll report how well it works. I also bought the mother of all motosport batteries @ 500CCA!!!!

Got the starter out. I should have the new (Valeo aftermarket) one tomorrow.


So below see pics of the original Bosch starter teeth.
Also see my flywheel.

I'm interested to know:

If the teeth on the original starter/flywheel look good to you.

Should I clean the flywheel teeth? How do you do this?

What lubricant should I apply, and if I apply to starter teeth, and or flywheel teeth. Same moly lube as input shaft...or what?

Thanx in advance

I'm interested to know:
If the teeth on the original starter/flywheel look good to you.
YES

Should I clean the flywheel teeth?
NO

What lubricant should I apply, and if I apply to starter teeth, and or flywheel teeth. Same moly lube as input shaft...or what?
NONE. Just put a drop of oil on the shaft the gear runs on

Just got my new starter. Cost me $112 CDN delivered 2days.

Much lighter and looks to be nicely made.....we'll see.

I just installed the mother of all powersport batteries (500 CCA), so this will compensate for the additional weight.

First thing I notice is that the screws thread into the starter casting instead of using a nut.

1- Make sure the new starter has the same number of teeth as the old one.

2 - You don't need that front bracket anymore