Highbeam

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Rob Frankham
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Re: Highbeam

Post by Rob Frankham »

gspd wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 3:03 pm
Rob Frankham wrote: Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:37 pm Incidentally (again), where did that diagram of the dimmer switch come from? I've never seen a BMW airhead dip switch with an 'off' position... those models which have a 'lights off' function (mainly euro spec models latterly) have a separate lights off switch.
Rob
The hi/lo switches never have a 'off' position. (There are no contacts for it in that pic.)
I don't know why Clymer illustrated it that way.
How to confuse things in one easy lesson... sometimes they really work hard at it :?

Rob
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Zombie Master
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Re: Highbeam

Post by Zombie Master »

Soooo I cut out the burnt spot on the yellow wire.

I discovered non insulated butt connectors! They allowed me to just strip off a small amount of insulation (1/4 inch) on each end, and used shrink wrap. Feels quite strong. Of course I experimented a few times on the bench, and luckily had the correct crimp-er specifically designed for the non insulated connectors. These connectors are very nice to use.


I can only think that the wire got caught by the chrome headlight ring, and with vibration, wore down the insulation to make a short.

I took apart the relay at one point and went through all the possible tests and put it back together.

At the suggestion of the mechanic from hell!, which he is. I replaced the ceramic fuses. They had not failed but looked like 38 year old fuses.


All functions work again:

Park lights
Headlight goes off when starting.
Low Beam
High beam flasher w indicator
High beam w indicator.

I think this happened due to my improving the lights with the LED halogen replacement, which added to the stuff packed in the headlight shell. Maybe I should have removed the S faring during installation so I could better see what was going on inside the shell.

I was thinking of going back to the original Halogen bulb at one point. But I really enjoy the super bright lights and lower charger system load.

Thanx for your input!
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Rob Frankham
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Re: Highbeam

Post by Rob Frankham »

I don't know which LED bulb you use but you need to bear in mind that Hgh Power LED bulds in general do generate quite a bit of heat and this is remved using a 'heat sink' on the base of the bulb. This is designed to get hot so having it in too close proximity to unprotected wiring isn't ideal.

Rob
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Zombie Master
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Re: Highbeam

Post by Zombie Master »

Yea I'm worried how things may settle out in the shell. There is a fan on the Heat sink. I used a loose fat Zip tie around the large wiring loom, that is attached to the upper headlight shell, to suspend the wiring off the back of the LED wiring. Hopefully that will keep things separated. I will examine in there after a bit of riding. Modifications to der fatherlands design can often create problems. :?
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SteveD
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Re: Highbeam

Post by SteveD »

I was concerned enough about the LED and heatsink in that limited space that I bought the EasternBeaver relay and loom instead. Still uses H4 but I added a HID spot and the loom accommodates that too. It's tighter in the shell now and I need to be careful how I seat the extra bits otherwise the lens is a right bugger to reinstall.
Cheers, Steve
Victoria, S.E.Oz.


1982 R100RSR100RS supergallery. https://boxerboy81.smugmug.com/R100RS
2006 K1200R.
1994 R1100GS.
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Zombie Master
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Re: Highbeam

Post by Zombie Master »

Still looking for a way to understand what happened, I had a conversation with Cyclops, the manufacturer of the 3800 Lumen LED H4 replacement.

They told me that nothing on the unit gets hot enough to melt anything. The hottest anything cold get would ever get is 150F.

They said there have been many airheads with these LED units.

I explained how I have hung the wiring harness from the original wiring harness.

He said that's more than most would do.

So it's still a mystery. I guess I'll keep on running it and check it, but the bulb is supposed to last 10X as long as the H4 :|
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Rob Frankham
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Re: Highbeam

Post by Rob Frankham »

Hmmm,

According to the ASTM C1055 regulations a human can stand tounching a surface with a temperature of 140 degrees for 5 seconds before they susutain irreversible burn damage... which is another way of saying it's pretty hot! 150 degrees may not melt the wiring but I thing it would probably lead to fairly rapid hardening of the insulation which could well explain your problem.

Rob
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