Boxerworks.com

I have also heard that a mixture of ATF and acetone works well as a penetrating oil, make sure to shake it up as it has a tendency to separate, used it with a combination of heat, Kroil to take apart an exhaust system head/cross pipes.

If we really want to be pedantic, there was no control for the volume of penetrant. The assembly (chamfered end of the nut at the bottom) doesn't replicate how parts are usually put together (flat mating surfaces). Temperature also affects solvent evaporation. Corrosion was fast tracked... etc. But in their defense, it shows that most work to some degree and if you watched (say) 20 similar tests and the same 1 or 2 products came out top in all or most cases it would swing your decision. Thanks for the ideas and great to know people are considerate and willing to share ideas here. Some forums are not as helpful.

Back to the original question... If someone has a magic trick to remove this bolt, I'm all ears.

@jagarra I'd be nervous about heating after acetone but it's pretty volatile so maybe evaporates quick enough not to be a problem. They used that mix in the video links in the previous post. Thanks for the tips

Given the things you've tried, I think it is probably time to consider sacrificing the bolt. If nothing else, it will take away any inhibitions you might have in relation to using extreme force on the existing one.Of course you need to be able to get a replacement before you go there... and, if you can't, then a reconsideration is in order.

This bolt 'shouldn't' be particularly tight... around 60 ft lbs...so the problem is probably chemical bonding between the bolt and the yoke.

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri Dec 03, 2021 4:40 am I think it is probably time to consider sacrificing the bolt.

Jeezuzz, , I just have to butt in here.
Have you people never dealt with seized components?
Here in Quebec, they are the norm rather than the exception.
Everything here is saturated with road salt from December till March.

Get a 1/2" drive impact gun (air or electric) and a proper 1/2" drive hex bit.
That bolt will immediately come out with the first easy squeeze of the trigger, guaranteed, or I'm not GSPD.
The hammering action of the impact gun will break the bolt free instantly whereas applying a ton of force with a long extension will only damage the steering stops.
If you can't borrow one, can't afford one, or don't want to spend the money on one, just buy one at Walmart, use it very carefully, repackage it meticulously and return it.
Shop around and inquire about return policies first. All the 'big box' stores here in Canada (Walmart, Home Depot, Canadian Tire, etc ) offer totally hassle free returns, even on tools.

You're welcum

Um... if you read the first post he's already tried an impact driver.

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Fri Dec 03, 2021 12:57 pm Um... if you read the first post he's already tried an impact driver.
Rob

There are impact drivers, and then there are IMPACT DRIVERS.
I'm curious...ozR65LS didn't specify the size and type of impact driver and socket he tried.
The impact energy is wasted if the socket is even slightly loose on the gun or if any reducers, adapters or extensions are used.

A good 1/2" drive gun with a tight fitting short 1/2" drive hex tip socket will surely get that nut off.
A 3/8" drive hex tip with an enlarger to fit a 1/2" gun does not provide anywhere near the same hit.
A 3/8" drive gun or substandard 1/2" gun won't either.

I also have a 3/4" 'Big Bertha' gun (with an oversize air supply hose) for the real bastards.
I don't recall ever resorting to that one on a airhead, but I needed it regularly in an another life to remove crusty VW Type II rear axle nuts.

As a very, very last alternative, heat the bolt with a small tip oxy/acetylene torch.
Start at the center and work your way outwards until the whole nut is glowing red.
Douse it with water, then hit it with the gun.

Some additional thoughts.

It must have taken a couple of hundred ftlbs to shift mine but there was no obvious corrosion on the threads. The loud crack when it released suggests it's the surface area of the screw cap against the yoke that causes the problem which is just as well because I don't see any way of getting penetrating fluid to soak into the threads short of turning the bike upside down.

I must admit I also had missed the mention that an impact wrench had already been tried, perhaps a bigger more powerful one would do the trick. It would certainly be safer as my biggest fear was worrying what damage would happen to the bike or me if the bit snapped in the attempt.

On a positive note I can recall this issue coming up several times over the years on the R65 forum and it was always a bear of a job but no one failed to get the screw loose in the end.

Can an $100. electric impact driver get this kind of job done?

How about taking it to a local garage with a big beast of an impact driver to see if they can shift it and then just nip it up to some lower torque figure before riding home.

On a positive note again, when you do get it out and replace/clean/adjust the bearings, the amount of pre-load will change when you tighten that screw as it takes up the small amount of slack in the threads. It's a trial and error process to get it right so you will be tightening and untightening that screw several times. The slack disappears before you get to 82 ftlbs so there is no need to apply full torque in this adjustment process. I never did apply full torque on account of using anti-seize.