Boxerworks.com

Wellcome aboard!

Thanks to all. I'll get crackin' on this project & report back. I've found many resources on the web including Duane's excellent site.

I've begun the work.
Drained the gas tank, dropped the pan/drained the oil & cleaned out the pan.
Removed the plugs & gave a shot of PB Blaster into the cylinders.

It has Mikuni carbs which look fairly new. The petcocks were in the off position so no gas in the carbs.

A few problems have cropped up:

1) The battery is shot & must be replaced. Problem is I can't get the old one out. I have no idea how the previous owner got it in. Does anyone know the correct dimensions for a stock battery? Also, does anyone have a "secret" for removing an oversized battery?

2) The brake lever is frozen hard. How do I get it to move?

Part of the reason it's good to have all 3 manuals is because they all have errors (yes, even those Teutonic Gods make mistakes), so, when you find a conflict between manuals, you know it's a good time to ask questions before doing anything.

When they all have the same error? Well, just remember: if it just doesn't sound right, trust your instincts more than the manuals. Stop, and ask for help.

w8ejo wrote: 1) The battery is shot & must be replaced. Problem is I can't get the old one out. I have no idea how the previous owner got it in. Does anyone know the correct dimensions for a stock battery? Also, does anyone have a "secret" for removing an oversized battery?

Remove the two subframe bolts that are lateral to the battery. Later models have countersunk bolts to avoid this.
Loosen the battery carrier at the top...
Tilt the battery backwards, and out.

OR

Remove the airbox, bring the battery out that way.

OK - got the battery out - thanks for the tip.

Still need to unfreeze front the brake lever its frozen hard. How do I get it to move?

Also, the gas cap key is missing - can you get replacements?

w8ejo wrote: Still need to unfreeze the brake lever its frozen hard. How do I get it to move?

Rear brake, right?
I would loosen the brake adjusting nut located at the final drive. Loosen it several turns to create some 'wiggle" room. Now look on the outside of the pivot point where the brake lever is supposed to pivot.. See that little 8mm (I think) thingie on the very end? It's recessed a bit, so look carefully. It'll be there--or it'll be missing. In the middle of that thingie you can see a little ball. That is where the European mechanics use a special grease gun end to lubricate the pivot. But don't try that. Instead, with an 8mm socket, see if you can unscrew that thingie.

With the thingie now out of the way spray your favorite penetrating oil into the void. Now try moving the lever. If it will move at all, then the penetrating oil will soon have it loose. Then you can do a proper greasing job. You could probably go to an auto parts store and buy a grease gun with the end that fits the thingie. What I have done is to I work some grease gun grease into the void (it'll be messy). Work the brake lever a lot. Then screw the thingie back in and I would say you're good to go.


Ken

Duane Ausherman wrote: ...w8ejo de w6rec.
Welcome to the BMW motorcycle world...


...This is similar to an old group of geezers on 75 m phone. Ask first and then evaluate the variety of answers...

Hah, you an OT/OM Duane? - never! (Sorry don't use CW much Sir...)

I don't know, 8ejo as far as free Internet advice, info, data with candor minus the BS, since Mr. A is far too polite and without ego, to mention it, might I suggest starting at Duane's site and having a look about? --> http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/index.htm Also, obviously you'll find him lurking here too.

Indeed, there are so many books of high and low value (and cost too) but just as Duane mentions, "Google with BMW motorcycle in your search and the relevant item etc.." (paraphrased Duane, sorry...) Anyhow, most Google searches that relate to older BMW's from pre /5 to what perhaps /7's, you'll likely see Mr. Ausherman's site come up on top or darn near it in your browser's window. All I can say is "there is a good reason for this" -and it ain't marketing...

Thanks too Duane, we appreciate what you do for us and how you do it.

I bought a Gas Cap Pick Tool online for a few bucks. It should be here in a few days. When it gets here I'll take the cap off & try to remove the lock mechanism permanently. I found a link that tells how:
http://www.largiader.com/articles/gascap/

I still need help on freeing up the frozen front brake lever.

If the front brake lever is frozen, either the master is rusted solid, or the cable is, or both. See if you can get enough slack in the cable to remove it, by turning the adjustment things at both end of the cable and see if you can lever the end of the cable off the actuating arm of the master cylinder. Then, if it still won't move, cut the cable as close to the grip to remove and grease all pivots and reassemble with a new cable.