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how many opening are there for the idle circuit I see one at six oclock are there more tha I,m not seeing?

mefrank11 wrote:how many opening are there for the idle circuit I see one at six oclock are there more tha I,m not seeing?

If you lift the butterfly, you'll see more.

There are two idle circuit openings and the one for the needle. Wear safety glasses, hold the butterfly open and squirt carb cleaner in the air hole at 6 o'clock on the front of the carb. You will see the cleaner coming fronm the two small holes if there is no pluggage.

you guys are great!i think we gotit rode it for around nine miles around the projects I live in. twice about 9 miles then the fan and screwed with the screws. se3ems to idloe down quite well .
Still have the slight hang up for a few seconds . I think in a while I,ll treat her to a new set of throttle cables I really need to do a few up grade like break lines etc . Thanks again fellas, Frank in hot Florida Hope I,m not getting all excited and jinks the thing rethinking the prior posts I do need to lube the advance unitI,ve got spine grease or axle grease. Or should i get something else/ Thanks Frank

Frank, re the advance unit grease. I'm holding a tube of the Bosch grease specified for this purpose it appears to be some sort of very light moly. Comes out of the tube grey, smears easily, no stick. Remember, ideally you need a light grease so the mechanism moves freely, but also able to handle the high heat in the timing box. I would think axle grease to be way to heavy and the spline lube looks coarse in comparison. At the very least, wipe what you have on it, and wipe it off. Enough will be left to serve the purpose.

I have seen old grease get so thick that it prevented the flyweights from returning quickly.

When your bike goes back to idle properly, use it to educate yourself. With the engine stopped, grab the flyweights and pull them out. This is the advanced position. Let them go and they should snap back home. Grabbing the flyweights by hand for this test only takes a few seconds and can be a very good indication of trouble. One can also see this while using the timing light on the ATU. Rev it up and watch the flyweights move out, then watch them move back in smoothly. If you see any jerking around, fix it.

I suspect that these two little items are ignored by most mechanics. Often one can see an error before it shows up in the tuning procedures.

A common reason for them to stick is a mushroomed nose on the rotor. File it back down and try again.

Jeff in W.C. wrote:

Tim Shepherd wrote:

mefrank11 wrote:I recently replaced the return springs on the advance sprayed it with brake cleaner. I,ll check it later today thanks for your response Frank

Pull it off and clean it well, the inside of the tube and where it slides in the camshaft. The original grease has probably long since hardened or disappeared completely. There is a special Bosch grease for lubing the advance mechanism available from these guys: http://secure.capitalcycle.com/ADVANCE- ... fo/FT1V26/

Is there really special grease for this, or just a special tube with grease in it so Bosch can increase their bottom line. Wouldn't be the first time a company did that.

Yes, the Bosch grease works very well for both the Points rubbing block and the ATU. Spend the extra money, have peace of mind and know that both tubes will last 25+ years.

RPG

I still have a partially used tube of that grease that was used in my shop and purchased in about 1967. It will outlast me.

Duane Ausherman wrote:I still have a partially used tube of that grease that was used in my shop and purchased in about 1967. It will outlast me.

It nearly already did!