Boxerworks.com

Chuey said, I got the 1983 bike I was working on running and have just test ridden it. It has lots of power and shifts fine. There are a few things that I'd like to get right that aren't there yet.

1. The front brake feels like it works correctly but the lever is a little too close to the bar when the brakes engage. It doesn't feel mushy but I'm thinking I may just need to go through the bleed process again. It is the dual Brembo setup. Am I on the right track?


Re-bleed the front brake.


2. It is leaking at the front of the transmission boot. I'm pretty sure I have the boot on properly bu

As Matt Said, a pin hole or clamps not done up properly. There is not much room for error when tightening the clamps.
Check that the clamps are under the little 'keeper' tabs, top and bottom at the swingarm end.

3. Even with the transmission in neutral, I have to hold in the clutch lever to engage the starter. Is that just two wires reversed? Also, the neutral light does not work. The bulb tested good. As I recall, there is power if I use my multimeter on the two terminals of the neutral switch.

Broken do-dad inside the gearbox that activates the neutral switch. Therefore clutch must be pulled in to override defective neutral switch. My 81 has been like that for years. I aint gonna pull the gearbox out when I can pull the clutch in!

Chuey wrote:

mattcfish wrote:If the tranny boot leaks you have a pin hole or something isn't clamped up right. It makes no difference if the tranny is leaking or not, the boot shouldn't. Usually it is just drive shaft oil. I used to have issues when I would drive down hill for long distances. Before I fixed the boot I was able to temperarily stop the leak by flipping it upside down.

On the neutral switch, make sure it's the right one. Earlier switches work in reverse of newer switches. I made the mistake on my firend's R90. One type works with a ground the other works with power.

How would I tell one type of neutral switch from the opposite? I'm wondering if that would help me with the clutch switch? Or are there two types of those as well?

Chuey

It's been awhile, I remember one (I beleave the early version) has a longer actuating tip than the other. Different part numbers too.
up to 9/75 23141352153
after 9/75 61311243097

ME 109 wrote:
Broken do-dad inside the gearbox that activates the neutral switch. Therefore clutch must be pulled in to override defective neutral switch. My 81 has been like that for years. I aint gonna pull the gearbox out when I can pull the clutch in!

Aw come on Jeff, fess up..... You just haven't found just the right picnic table for the job yet.

Here it comes:


From the side:


Rear view:


I'm hoping to take it to the DMV tomorrow morning for an attempt at registration.

Chuey

Hot Diggity Dawg! Ya done GOOD!

Ya, but it's gotta do more than just look the part.

Nice one Chuey!
We'll have to call you 'Gold finsger'

chasbmw wrote:I think that the earlier switch only has one wire?

Fraid not,

The switch fitted to the fours speed box only has one connector but the two types fitted to five speed boxes both have two. As far as I'm aware, there is no obvious difference between the two save that they work in the reverse sense. That being said, I doubt that this is the (only) problem here simply because the light would be on when the transmission is engaged if the wrong type of switch is fitted.

There are some assumptions that can be made from the symptoms so far...

1. The two 'faults', No neutral lamp and failing to start without the clutch are almost certainly connected.
2. The function that enables the starter in neutral is not dependent on a positive supply to the bulb or the bulb being in tact. It is simply a switched ground via the neutral switch.
3. It follows, therefore, that, assuming there is only one fault, it will be between the point where the circuit from the neutral switch and the circuit from the clutch switch come together (or else the starter wouldn't work with the clutch pulled). This point, if its a pre '85 twin shock at least, is in the headlamp shell at one end of the diode that is soldered in at the rear of the circuit board
4. Failure of the diode does not fit the symptoms (The neutral lamp would work)

Of course, if there is more than one fault all bets are off.

Trouble shooting...

1. Check that both connectors are attached on the neutral switch.
2. Check the the ground ring terminal is attached to the gearbox mounting bolt on the left side.
3. Take your meter, switch it to the Ohms range and check for continuity between the non-ground terminal on the switch and ground in gear... there should be no continuity.
4. Check for continuity between the non-ground terminal on the switch and ground out of gear... there should be continuity. If there isn't, the switch is suspect
5. Check for continuity between the terminal in the headlamp shell and the switch

This should locate the fault fairly simply.

Good luck

Rob

Ah! I should have read Chuey's original post more carefully regards the neutral light not working.
My neutral switch activating do-dad inside the tranny broke (apparently) and the neutral light would stay on in neutral and any gear. I disconnected the switch.

That's a seriously gorgeous machine Chuey, very tastefully done. I like the way you've tucked in the rear indicators, I've done the same.
Are you going to lengthen the sidestand ? (I've altered mine -- twice).
I know it's in the nature of things for side reflectors to draw the eye, but I find that they detract from the overall appearance like a good suit with too loud a tie.
Not a particularly practical stance, I know. But the more sleek and coherent the bike, the more they mar the effect.
Good luck with getting the official approval, then how about a video of you scraping the valve covers round your 'hood ?

Sunbeem. Breathless in Bentham.