Boxerworks.com

KiO wrote:Standing beside the bike, with the centerstand laying on the ground I put one hand on the handlebar, the other on the lift handle, and my right forefoot on the left hand foot of the centerstand (not the lever that's used for lowering the stand), as if I were going to try lifting it with only my foot push the stand down into the ground. Then with a big swing moderate effort , primarily co-ordinating the right foot press with my right arm I will pull the bike back up and then using my left arm to guide it back and over up onto the centerstand. Standing on that left hand foot of the centerstand doesn't look like it would help any, but it seems to make it easier for me. One thing is sure, your right foot on the leg will make sure the centerstand doesn't scoot back wasting all the energy you've put into your big swing.

Very similiar to me Ken, with a change in focus and co-ordination of arms and foot.
3 pt. contact. Simultaneously push down on the stand with the right foot, whilst lifting the handle upwards, then guide back and over with left hand on the handlebar. On a previous RS I had, the stand was shot, and that technique was the only way it would work. Mates couldn't do it without instruction. Even easier with a decent centre stand.
Importantly, to avoid ongoing wear to the stand (I think) avoid the bike slamming back on the stand...allow it to gently reach its final position.
Ensure the bush is well greased, and your nuts are tight. Replace them every few years. I've had a couple snap during a lift and it's to be avoided!

Duane Ausherman wrote:Using a correct Reynold's Ride Off stand is such a pleasure. Not only is it a ride-off, but a ride-on too.

You got reverse?

SteveD wrote: Ensure the bush is well greased, and your nuts are tight. Replace them every few years. I've had a couple snap during a lift and it's to be avoided!

Do you mean replace the bolts or nuts or both?

Well, if 3 to 4 inches is the norm, then I guess I'm confused. Maybe that's because I'm comparing it to my monoshocker, which is much less?

ME 109 wrote:

Duane Ausherman wrote:Using a correct Reynold's Ride Off stand is such a pleasure. Not only is it a ride-off, but a ride-on too.

You got reverse?

I believe this is the part where Duane comes along and says that it's covered on his website.


To save you the effort of looking it up, I think Duane's website describes the technique along the following lines:

As he brakes the bike to a stop (using the front wheel) the fork compresses. As the very point when the bike comes to a stop and the forks are compressed, his toe has been on the tab of the centerstand, and he presses it downward. The energy of the compressed fork springs will then "push" the bike back and up on it's centerstand. Hence the "ride on".

I've never seen it done, but I imagine it could be quite showy. I can picture an earlier version of Duane, riding his Reynolds centerstand equipped BMW up to a group of Harley riders or Crotch Rocket Cowboys, and demonstrating his technique to them. I can only imagine how impressed they would be.

Ken

Littleleroy wrote:Well, if 3 to 4 inches is the norm, then I guess I'm confused. Maybe that's because I'm comparing it to my monoshocker, which is much less?

Issue 1. Our bikes can be difficult to get up on the c/stand. We've discussed shortening the stand, and modifying the stand to achieve more leverage with our boot.
And as previously mentioned in this thread, technique.
Any or all of the 3 points above will make life easier.

Issue 2. If the front wheel is close to the ground when the bike is on the c/stand, the stand is worn and needs repairing.

This angle on the c/stand will achieve a front wheel almost on the ground..........and what a pain in the ass to get the bike off the c/stand.



This angle will give about 3" under the front wheel and is almost too easy to get off the stand.
It's great tho' when your bike is fully loaded to be able to just ride off the c/stand.



Putting the bike on blocks of wood made it easy to operate the c/stand without it contacting the ground.
It enabled me to decide on what angle I wanted, and to take the stand on and off, grinding more from the added weld until I had achieved the desired result.

Zombie Master wrote:

SteveD wrote: Ensure the bush is well greased, and your nuts are tight. Replace them every few years. I've had a couple snap during a lift and it's to be avoided!

Do you mean replace the bolts or nuts or both?

Since my first airhead in the early 1980's, I've had 2 bolts snap. One was on a R65LS, the other a R100RS.

Zombie Master wrote: ↑Sat Jul 23, 2011 1:43 pm

SteveD wrote: Ensure the bush is well greased, and your nuts are tight. Replace them every few years. I've had a couple snap during a lift and it's to be avoided!

Do you mean replace the bolts or nuts or both?

Yeah ZM, I replace both occasionally. A good dab of grease around the bush...

So Jeff, any updates on repair and how yours is surviving since you fixed it?