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Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 1:48 am
by Major Softie
justoneoftheguys wrote:Looks like I'll be parting this bitch out, after all.
If I were to go to the trouble of buying replacement cylinders, I suppose it would be foolhardy not to replace the rings as well?
YES.
The top end rust (that we can see) would be most worrisome for me on the valve springs. I would NOT run an engine with rust pitted valve springs. A little surface rust on the rocker arm risers and the end of the rocker shafts is far less bothersome.
It's hard to tell from the pictures how deep the bore issues are, but that "bloom" certainly looks bad in the photos.
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:05 am
by Deleted User 287
Major Softie wrote:
YES.
The top end rust (that we can see) would be most worrisome for me on the valve springs. I would NOT run an engine with rust pitted valve springs. A little surface rust on the rocker arm risers and the end of the rocker shafts is far less bothersome.
It's hard to tell from the pictures how deep the bore issues are, but that "bloom" certainly looks bad in the photos.
I have no plans to try and use these cylinders.
While a fingernail doesn't really catch on the imperfections, they are obviously damaged, and being Nikasil, there is not much I could do with them.
Snowbum says Nikasil can be honed, but only for de-glazing.
Obviously, that is not my problem here.
There is what looks like a nice pair of cylinders from an '83 on eBay for $200, but without knowing that they have been measured with a dial bore gauge (by someone that knows what they are doing), I could be just flushing more money down the toilet.
And I'm probably going to be unemployed in 9 days...
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:09 am
by SteveD
justoneoftheguys wrote:
...And I'm probably going to be unemployed in 9 days...
No good news there Rob! Sorry to hear. Any prospects looming?
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 2:16 am
by Deleted User 287
SteveD wrote:justoneoftheguys wrote:
...And I'm probably going to be unemployed in 9 days...
No good news there Rob! Sorry to hear. Any prospects looming?
Nothing so far.
I sold a Woody Allen box set this weekend for $30, and got my neighbor to pay me back $40 he owed me from last winter (he's a drunkard and forgets, and I am non-confrontational).
I also got a check for $40 last week for mowing grass...
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:06 pm
by Jean
Is this to replace the engine you had in the bike when you ran the tranny without oil??
I missed something...what happened to it?
Just a link to the original story is fine.
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 1:02 pm
by Deleted User 287
Jean wrote:Is this to replace the engine you had in the bike when you ran the tranny without oil??
I missed something...what happened to it?
Just a link to the original story is fine.
I rear-ended another bike 3 years ago and destroyed the left head.
I bought a new used low mileage engine from a breaker in D.C. that same Fall.
It was the transmission that was destroyed by running w/o oil one year ago.
Bought new used transmission last Fall.
Rode for the first time last May, when I went to Columbus, OH and back. Over 300 miles.
AFAIK, the transmission is good.
The rest of the latest details are in this thread.
Thanks for caring, Jean, but it is a worthless cause. Some energy out there is keeping me off this bike.
If we ever meet, I will be in my Civic. Or if I'm really lucky, on a 250 Vespa.
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 4:14 pm
by Jean
Unemployment is the priority item, now.
Can you relocate?
BEFORE you pulled everything apart, did you do a compression check on each side? I agree the cylinder bores LOOK pretty hurt, but looks can be deceiving. the lines where the pins streaked the cyls are rather normal for an engine with a respectable milage, and the concentric rings, since you cannot feel them with your fingernail, might not be as nasty as they look. Only a compression check would tell you if a hone would be worthwhile. It just might be possible to hone 95% of those ugly marks out...Nik cyls CAN be honed...It looks like someone did try to hone them with a dirty hone.
Back to the compression check question...how did the sp look? Was there any indication that you were BURNING oil, or just dumping it out?
If you rode 300 miles and only afterward discovered the rust, and that oil was blowing from somewhere, it sorta seems the engine is really doing better than the appearences would lead you to decide!!
Your Cat OK?
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:05 pm
by Deleted User 62
Yep, I'd be tempted to put it all back together with the new seals and ride/sell it "as is".
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:16 pm
by Deleted User 287
Jean wrote:how did the sp look?
What is "sp"?
Sure I would relocate, but at the risk of sounding snobbish, only to a Medical Cannabis State.
I don't expect sympathy from those that don't imbibe.
I certainly don't have sympathy for alcoholics or tobacco users.
Yeah - I guess I will put it back together and sell it like I stole it.
I don't have a compression tester, and I'm not about to go wasting money on one now.
Re: Working on the engine - internal top-end rust
Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:05 pm
by Jean
sp = spark plugs.