Boxerworks.com

It will start much easier if you move the junk away from the kick start lever. See, you can get great advice here:-)

tenni128 wrote:Well, I just picked up this R69US from a buddy. Can't get 'er started. Any ideas?
Really, though, I'm going to start putting this thing together after I get home from this deployment next May...I will be looking for someone to go through the gearbox to verify the condition, as well as any machining work the motor might need. Any recommendations for an airhead-savvy shop within reasonable distance from southern California?

R90S.jpg

This is easy; It just needs gas in it.

Duane Ausherman wrote:The cam will fit, but I no nothing about fitting the pistons to clear.

My experience was repairing them, not modifying them. Some idiots went so far as to install a VW engine in a /2.

Who would ever do such a thing?

I think that there is no explaining idiocy.

Well, a small update and the promise of a build thread...I am finally through enough of my wife's year-in-the-making honey do list to have gotten some time and resources together for my R69. Sent the engine off for slinger service, head work, etc. Frame is back and shiny black. I'm going to start working on cleaning up the wheels then I'll send them off to be re-laced. On the engine, after a lengthy phone call with Vech this morning, it turns out I made the right choice in having it gone through. Slingers are totally full and crap was already starting to migrate through the engine, and three of four lifters are shot. One cam lobe shows pitting (maybe saveable), and the crank is very saveable but needs a little work. Clutch was wet, but I knew that when I pulled the trans off. Clutch plate was a little chewed up as well. So, while I'm a little sad about parting with the money, I'm also glad that I decided to have it gone through rather than chance it given the unkown history. I'll get some pics together as parts start getting to me. So, one for the crowd: Should I have the engine case just cleaned and degreased, and leave the patina? Or should I go with the old "well I've come this far..." mentality and have it all blasted back to new? Of course, if I go with the latter, that means the trans, final drive and wheel hubs as well or it'll look stupid. Hmmm.

Just got a '66 R60/2 . It is the smoothest running BMW I have ever ridden. also the slowest. I know nothing about pre-1970 BMWs aside from their charm.
The only issue is that the left side carb leaks fuel when not running and fuel tap is on. I think it is the idle mixture screw that leaks (it appears to be coming from the screw that goes into the carb horizontally).
It runs so good, i don't want to do a full rebuild or anything. is there a gasket that might be worn and I can simply back the screw out and replace it?

I would think that there is a leak because the float doesn't shut off the fuel. The idle mixture screw...it's really called an air screw on these carbs...has a pointed end which fits into a small hole or port to control the air allowed into the circuit. The outboard side of the screw has an interesting arrangement with an inverted cap such that air is allowed thru a circuitous path (to keep dirt out) so that it can travel down the needle and into the port.

I'd say find out why the float isn't stopping fuel from entering the bowl. Trying lapping the needle with something like toothpaste. Be sure the float still works and isn't cracked taking on gas. Be sure the float needle doesn't get hung in the small well at the bottom of the bowl...corrosion can reduce the size of the well, creating problems with the needle moving up and down.

Kurt in S.A.

jjwithers wrote:Just got a '66 R60/2 . It is the smoothest running BMW I have ever ridden. also the slowest.

You need to dump that vibrating speed demon and get an R50/2 You just haven't experienced smooth and underpowered until you have ridden the R50/2. Admittedly, the singles can challenge it for slow, but for smooth AND slow, nothing can touch it.

Assuming that it was the float that was sticking open for some reason, it somehow corrected itself after a nice 30 mile ride. Something must have been stuck from the bike's transport in a trailer for 6 days and now it seems to be fine. I'll play with that carb if I see it drip again.
Is there a carb diagram somewhere aside from the Parts Fische for these old gals?
It doesn't look like many of these carb parts are available from BMW anymore.

I've been looking at Duane's site and although the wiring diagram looks like the most simple diagram I've seen, the rest of the bike appears to have its complexities, like timing, fork preload, etc...

Now the only leak I see is a slight dip of oil. When it stops leaking, I know it will be time to add oil! haha.

Bing has some exploded views of the carbs on their website. You would be served well if you called them up and ordered their book on these carbs.

http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/2explode.html

Not sure about /2 carb parts, but BMW sells parts for the later carbs and often times, the dealer is cheaper than Bing.

Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A. wrote:Bing has some exploded views of the carbs on their website.

Bing of all people should know better than to let smoking employees work on carbies that haven't been emptied of fuel.
Even I learnt that.