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Can I ask a question? I've upgraded ATE type front ends with the slightly later Brembo equipped ones from twin shock airheads, but have never seen this mod done with a K front end (which might well be easier to find).

Is it just a straight swap? Does the wheel still fit? What fabrication is required? Do you use the K yokes? Do you use the K calipers and disks etc. etc.

Thanks for the idea, Sam! Your bike was the one that put the idea in my head. Although, maybe I should be cursing you instead...

DanielMc wrote:Can I ask a question? I've upgraded ATE type front ends with the slightly later Brembo equipped ones from twin shock airheads, but have never seen this mod done with a K front end (which might well be easier to find).

Is it just a straight swap? Does the wheel still fit? What fabrication is required? Do you use the K yokes? Do you use the K calipers and disks etc. etc.

Yes and no. I liked the '85 K100RS front end because it had the Brembos, and looked similar to stock. It "bolts right on" to the frame as far as that goes, but there's plenty to fiddle with. The steering stop needs to be extended to grab the K lower clamp. If you want a tube-type spoked wheel, you'll likely have to source a hub and have one built. I used an R100R hub off flea-bay, and Woody's took it from there. They happily took my stock R90 wheel in partial trade, which offset the cost considerably. The Brembo discs bolt up to the R100R hub, and also shares the same axle as the K bike. I didn't like the rubber mounted handle bar setup on the K100RS; find one for a K75 and it bolts on with a cleaner look. The headlight mount/ears slide over the thicker forks, but need to be shortened approx 10mm, and you'll need a dremel w/ a sanding drum to remove enough rubber from the inside of the grommets to fit. Turn signal mounts need a little work, but slide over the bigger forks-you need to drill a hole for a roll pin on the lower clamp to locate the turn signals like stock. You could do this with much, much less work if you are just after "making it work". It just took a lot of time to get (to me) a roughly factory appearance.

Chuey wrote:

tenni128 wrote:What's wrong with my horn?

Dual Fiamms are a blessing when you need a horn. Great looking bike. I'm glad to hear the fork worked out. I was looking in on that thread.

There are times when you need a real loud horn.

Other times, a regular 'ol horn is better. The other day I had to give a friendly little toot to remind someone not paying attention that the light had changed to green. It wouldn't have been appropriate to blast them with dual Fiamms.

Steve in Golden wrote: There are times when you need a real loud horn.

Other times, a regular 'ol horn is better. The other day I had to give a friendly little toot to remind someone not paying attention that the light had changed to green. It wouldn't have been appropriate to blast them with dual Fiamms.

Oh, I disagree. Unless their window is down, or they are in a convertible, newer cars are so much more sound proof that old original horns often go unheard even at a light. You just have to be very light on the button in that situation with the Fiamms.

tenni128 wrote:Thanks for the idea, Sam! Your bike was the one that put the idea in my head. Although, maybe I should be cursing you instead...

Oh - that's funny. The cursing is because of all the minor problems. Mine has been off the road for a good while now while, seeing your bike makes me want to get back in the workshop and finish it. I still haven't solved the problem of fitting the original mudguard to the K forks. Your solution looks interesting.

Sam

A thoughtful build.
You may consider keeping your master cylinder –
The dual mc will not prove to be a better application (IMO).

Use those (NOW good) brakes and / or your throttle ...
a better option rather than any ubiquitous and ineffectual horn – or two.

Sam: The front mudguard fitment isn't an ideal solution, but I haven't come up with a better one yet. Basically, I just beat some aluminum in to shape with a slight "Z" in it, smoothed them up a bit, and called them drop down brackets. It seems to me that you don't need much support there other than to just locate it, since that brace is pretty stout and seems fairly stiff. I have since, however, added more proper looking hardware with nylon locknuts. The straight slot 1/4-20 screws just got it on the road in a pinch.

Vanzen: I am absolutely going to stay with the single port M/C. After a little more adjusting on the cable the brakes are now plenty strong. I still would like to find an easy way to drill out a port on the other side, as this would allow a cleaner setup and let me use the extra braided line I have, but till then my hard-line creation will suffice. I have thought of talking to Spiegler or someone about making one up, but I really am not sure what to tell them as far as what fittings I'd need.

Nice to have a bike with a manly flywheel

Tenni

Your solution looks good for those forks. The whole bike looks good. The K forks on mine are slightly different and I have been scratching my head for a year over how to mount the R-series mudguard. In the end it may be more simple for me to turn or grind off the existing mounts and fabricate and weld (have welded) in place some aluminium bosses so that the fork brace/ mudguard mount can be bolted straight on.

Sam