Boxerworks.com

Hey Rob, it's good to hear that you're happy to be working on the bike again.

One thing that I've gleaned from VW reading is that the valve spring keepers which I think are the same as collets, should not touch each other when they are surrounding the grooves in the valve. In other words, they may need to be filed so there is a gap when they are all settled in. If they don't have that gap, they will evidently have the potential to hammer the grooves and fail.

Of course, if you have a dialogue going with Bob Grauer, you should check that with him.

Chuey

Chuey wrote:if you have a dialogue going with Bob Grauer, you should check that with him.

In my initial e-mail to Bob today, I included a link to this thread so he could refer to it in case he hadn't checked in.
Hopefully he will see your post, but I'm not too worried about the collets. I know there are two different sizes for the two different sized valve stems. I just need to get one more pair for the last 7mm valve. I've asked Bob if he has some in stock, as it would be SO much cheaper to get them from him than to pay the S&H from Max or one of the other dealers.
The collets themselves are less than $2 a piece.

But the scenario you mention would be even worse with 8mm collets on a 7mm valve stem.
One more reason to put it together with the correct parts.

I'm going to need valve cover gaskets before this is over, too, but that is a little ways away, yet. And I can probably get them from the local dealer. They might even stock them!

I did buy a set of head gaskets a couple of weeks ago, so I'm not worried about trying to reuse the old ones anymore.


Next up - re-seal the final drive!

Rob, do you know if Bob's email address as listed on this forum is correct?

I contacted him Monday with some questions about head work and didn't hear back.

If he's busy and slow to respond that's fine, I was just trying to make sure I had his address right.

I think he's changed his log in name and thought maybe he changed email too.

pkboxer wrote:Rob, do you know if Bob's email address as listed on this forum is correct?

I contacted him Monday with some questions about head work and didn't hear back.

If he's busy and slow to respond that's fine, I was just trying to make sure I had his address right.

I think he's changed his log in name and thought maybe he changed email too.

See your PM.

He is one of the best! I can't wait to get employed again so I can afford to have the heads in my latest engine done.

I e-mailed with Tom Cutter today. He informed me that all of the single-shock R65's had the 7mm valve stems.

In a phone conversation with Bob Grauer today, I was reminded that often in a head rebuild of the R65 kind, the valves are upgraded to those with 8mm stems.

Later it occurred to me that these heads I am salvaging the springs from were the same one's Bob rebuilt for me.

I have a set of collets on the way from Max BMW, but per Tom Cutter's recommendation, I need to disassemble all three valves again to check for damage from one using collets from an 8mm valve...

I guess I should have invested in a real valve spring compressor after all!

Please do spend the few dollars necessary to get a spring compressor. It is dangerous trying to do this work without one - those parts that flew around the room could have ended up striking you - HARD!

John Falconer wrote:Please do spend the few dollars necessary to get a spring compressor. It is dangerous trying to do this work without one - those parts that flew around the room could have ended up striking you - HARD!

I plan to John. But with my current budget I need to get one of the less expensive ones.

Harbor freight has this one for $16. What do you think?



Sears has a similar one for even less money: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 000P?mv=rr

Sears also has a C-clamp type that is still within my budget (remember - I'm unemployed, not just being cheap):
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 000P?mv=rr

justoneoftheguys wrote:

John Falconer wrote:Please do spend the few dollars necessary to get a spring compressor. It is dangerous trying to do this work without one - those parts that flew around the room could have ended up striking you - HARD!

I plan to John. But with my current budget I need to get one of the less expensive ones.

Harbor freight has this one for $16. What do you think?



Sears has a similar one for even less money: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 000P?mv=rr

Sears also has a C-clamp type that is still within my budget (remember - I'm unemployed, not just being cheap):
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 000P?mv=rr

I have both the Sears C-clamp and the HF unit. The Sears unit is a little precarious on something so small as an Airhead head, but it works just fine. The HF unit risks scratch damage to the spring, and I try to use it only for D&D (disassemble & discard) work.

I have gotten by with the standard C clamp style for over 50 years now, first on V8s, then British bikes, and now on my assorted airheads. I've never owned, nor used, the other type you show in the image you embedded. There are some tricks do doing this kind of work easily and safely. A good "rap" at the right time can be a big help in freeing keepers/collets, also good solid "whacks" with a weighted rubber mallet atop the spring/valve is something I always do to settle things in BEFORE the engine tries to do the job.

John Falconer wrote:I have gotten by with the standard C clamp style for over 50 years now, first on V8s, then British bikes, and now on my assorted airheads. I've never owned, nor used, the other type you show in the image you embedded. There are some tricks do doing this kind of work easily and safely. A good "rap" at the right time can be a big help in freeing keepers/collets, also good solid "whacks" with a weighted rubber mallet atop the spring/valve is something I always do to settle things in BEFORE the engine tries to do the job.

The kind in the picture is very handy for doing work with the head still attached, like replacing valve springs or seals. Of course, removing the heads on an Airhead just isn't that big a deal. For detached heads, the C-clamp type is way better.