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Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:04 pm
by Major Softie
kutter wrote:
The throttle needle in the air slide needs replacing
as it has a couple of wear marks on it. The rest of the internals are ok.
If the needles are worn, replace the needle jets as well.
Eastwood and Harbor Freight carry soda in 50 lb. units.
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:11 pm
by Deleted User 72
Major Softie wrote:kutter wrote:
The throttle needle in the air slide needs replacing
as it has a couple of wear marks on it. The rest of the internals are ok.
If the needles are worn, replace the needle jets as well.
Eastwood and Harbor Freight carry soda in 50 lb. units.
He's in Oz. Are they?
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:26 pm
by SteveD
Native /5 wrote:Major Softie wrote:kutter wrote:
The throttle needle in the air slide needs replacing
as it has a couple of wear marks on it. The rest of the internals are ok.
If the needles are worn, replace the needle jets as well.
Eastwood and Harbor Freight carry soda in 50 lb. units.
He's in Oz. Are they?
Nope. A major hardware chain like Bunnings might have a similar product?
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:36 am
by Roy Gavin
And a new late carb spring is 122.5 mm relaxed, and it has 21 1/2 coils, if anyone ever wondered.
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:36 pm
by Deleted User 72
Roy Gavin wrote:And a new late carb spring is 122.5 mm relaxed, and it has 21 1/2 coils, if anyone ever wondered.
I'm pretty sure the clutch will slip using those springs, but I haven't tried it.
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:48 pm
by Major Softie
Native /5 wrote:Roy Gavin wrote:And a new late carb spring is 122.5 mm relaxed, and it has 21 1/2 coils, if anyone ever wondered.
I'm pretty sure the clutch will slip using those springs, but I haven't tried it.
I think you would have to use an awful lot of them...
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 5:03 pm
by Roy Gavin
SU make three or four that fit and are stiffer, if these dont work - something else to play with when you run out of screws to adjust.
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:23 pm
by kutter
Had to resort to an angle grinder to undo the head stem nut.
Heat failed. Soaking with nut loosener failed.
BF Spanners only succeeded in rotating the top and bottom
yokes out of line by 180 degrees and also the steering head lock engagement hole.
Has to be partly removed anyway to remove the lower bearing.
Even then had to unwind the nut with a cold chisel. The locknut would not let go either.
Removing seatlock from subframe in preparation for powdercoating.
Two of the clips that help hold the sidecovers on are on the point of
breaking off due to having been bent and straightened several times.
I am thinking of cutting all four off and attaching the sidecovers by different
means. I am not greatly impressed by the original rubberband system anyway.
I don't mind undoing a couple of screws at least they will be secure.
Has anyone done a modification along these lines??
Re: 1981 R100RS Diaphragm Spring Height
Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:13 am
by SteveD
Stubborn nut that one!
The side cover stubs are fragile. The right cover is the commonly lost one, but the fix is to use a different method and not rely on the rubber band. I've just used cable ties to hold them on, after discreetly drilling adequate holes into the side cover...one at the front, and one at the top on the flat surfaces that are perpendicular to the main cover surface. The cable tie fastens them to the frame at the top, and the front one loops around the hook for the rubber band.
Re: 1981 R100RS Petrol Cap
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:10 pm
by kutter
Looks like I have the non undoing petrol cap syndrome.
I just found out about this on another BMW forum.
Two fixes were mentioned
1. Pulling it open with a rope through the handle?
2. Dilling a hole in the cap and inserting a self tapper
to lock the inner workings to the outside of the cap
Does anyone have details of where to drill the cap for
the self tapper fix?