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Should you decide to upgrade your alt. output with a later model, the stator mount to the timing cover (case) is larger, as chas mentioned. The ea$y route is to swap your earlier case with one from a /6 or /7 with the mechanical tach gear, rather than turn the stator down to your case diameter or cutting your case to fit the later diameter.

You do not need a larger battery to have a greater capacity battery. If you have money to spend, there's options (AGM's, Lithium) that can give you significantly more capacity from a battery no larger than stock. Lithium gives an amazing increase in amps for its size, with a commensurate increase in cost, of course.

Native /5 wrote:Should you decide to upgrade your alt. output with a later model, the stator mount to the timing cover (case) is larger, as chas mentioned. The ea$y route is to swap your earlier case with one from a /6 or /7 with the mechanical tach gear, rather than turn the stator down to your case diameter or cutting your case to fit the later diameter.

Yes there are many and varied posts and data out there aimed at doing such things and even without having all the variables to crunch the numbers, not only does such a modification sort of go against the grain of my restoration objective (OK, mostly time and pocket book...) and even though a couple months prior people were talking about using heated grips or heated glove type arrangements; I find it unlikely that if the /5 alternator is adequate for that application, yet has not enough to spare topping off the batteries in my GPS and "likely" the radio/HT in question.

The current consumption data on the radio is oddly documented; everything is documented for operation in the 7.4VDC internal battery range - and it "mentions" one can provide 11-14 VDC for simultaneous charge and operation, but there's no corresponding data for usage of any kind while doing both, save with it just using the radio's own battery. From looking at what IS included regarding non-charging battery consumption, I think it likely to work, but unless someone were to have the same radio and set it up as I plan, there would be no way to and have identical alternator output at whatever given speed; looks like something that will simply need tested and the variables in the equation filled in once they can be measured... If all else fails; I'd be far more likely to increase the alternator's output in a manner for which you speak than trying to somehow make an AGM, dry cell or any other battery not die as swiftly simply due to its design, not the act whether it was getting inadequate charging from the battery due to accessories.

Major Softie wrote:You do not need a larger battery to have a greater capacity battery. If you have money to spend, there's options (AGM's, Lithium) that can give you significantly more capacity from a battery no larger than stock. Lithium gives an amazing increase in amps for its size, with a commensurate increase in cost, of course.

Hate to be a stick in the mud, but none of those batteries regardless of how much "better" they may be at doing one thing or another; if I run any on them at a deficit for a 10 hour day, or under just the wrong conditions (where the alternator is putting out its least and everything else like spark is consuming its most) The alternate batteries you've suggested will still become drained.

I'm taking a wild guess your response was to Motorhead's SWB to LWB conversion to cram a fork truck size battery in a bike? (sarcasm here...) I think it is likely to work just as is, but will only know when the time comes to be able to test and get real world figures. I don't know... I wonder if anyone in this region of nowhere has a M/C rear wheel dyno? That surely would be the way to sit around and plot what things do what under what conditions. Surely I can likely do without, but frankly finding a reputable shop around here with a dyno is something I really should consider, especially since I'm likely to have to do some engine work on this machine (smoking - let's pray for the route being the valve train; and or if it is the pistons, I think the only spares I have are std. - so if it is bore related, perhaps simply a new crosshatch? (likely wishful thinking there.)

dwire wrote:My regulator is set properly - err, it is somewhere in the 14 volt range at least that, no boiling or heat in the battery...

All Connections are new and or improved to everything from diode board to frame - well everywhere. Even with the bike off, the factory rear blinkers will blind you if you look at them, so I think the electrical system was covered well enough long ago in that sort of sense. LED's ? Well not really my style, I am old-school and prefer the more original looking filaments.

Turning a perfectly good SWB into a LWB to carry a GPS and radio sounds a bit out there and I would go as far as to say turning a perfectly good SWB into a LWB is far out there for me; unless of course one had another reason than the battery to do so, or better yet, absolutely no other choice.

Just my OPINONS is all; nothing more. I'd like keep it a stock machine - nothing I'd take with me or do to the bike will disrupt that save some added wires unseen in the loom and replacing the pussy horn with two really loud ones that frighten me when I honk at someone. Otherwise, I'd like to say I am restoring it, not "re-making " it.

Good Answer........... I think you'll be ok with the 14 or so volts and what you want to run, I charged my cell with no more than a patched in cigaret lighter charger my electrical system is the 180 watt

BUT the LED I mention are just single element or dual element replacement type LED 1157 I forget the other number white LED 1157 Ebay no muss or fuss just replace although I do run a timed signel really bright!

My Battery does not or never boil, just a lister here mentioned it...........

dwire wrote:
I'm taking a wild guess your response was to Motorhead's SWB to LWB conversion to cram a fork truck size battery in a bike?

Yes, I wasn't suggesting it would help, only that a larger capacity can be gained without a larger battery box.

Yeah MS, but... I was always told, "Size doesn't matter." - I guess you are confirming that statement with batteries too...

I never had any trouble with the 180 watt system and as the 1973 year replaced in America

I decided to clone my 1973 to a SWB as I liked the orginal battery size and rear fender arrangement and I tried most all systems to get the feel and figured SWB my last fronter until my health failed

As my orginally was a LWB but the PO added the big battery

the bike belonged to the chef mechnaic at Hutches near 29 palms and he used to to travel to Florda

orginal hand book showed all records

I returned to orginal unrestored condition as it was a good runner and easy a year later it was a differnt condition after the accident

when I got my Harley effort slowed down and now its the first bike I want to ride, but no cure for Lou Gerigs

'mhappy to finish the project and my only ride was Grand......

Interesting back story on the SWB -->LWB conversion - yet unpleasant about the LG's disease.
I'd not dream of making much of a statement one way or another about reliability, and likely shouldn't even about the stock 180 watt alternator, but... I can say that what is typical for plenty of the cars I've owned - an EASILY noticeable dimming in the lights at or around idle I never recall seeing on either of the bikes once all the electrical connections and such had been gone through and everything was running as intended. So from that point of view, with nothing "plugged into them" they surely never seemed as inadequate as some people seem to have issues with. I guess mostly (unless you were running a heated suit or something) a portion of those complaining of the original set-up's inadequacies, likely have a poor connection or pending problem of some nature, but again I can only guess on that with my experience level with these SWB BMW's...

Get Bult suit waterproof and they have air vents and they the come with liners for cold conditions I never take them on warm conditions a cottom set works is its too cool especally if vent are closed and fully armored

I never was intersted in warm electrical as I get hot and one time I almost froze I reconized and found what I needed and the story about it was one of my best experence

"Bult" suit? Sounds interesting. I Googled it and found a death metal band! I guess that must have not been a brand name.

Stiff leather top jacket and chaps has been my favored attire on street M/C's -(Besides I'd likely look a bit silly with a Simpson racing suit and such on one of these classics!) There is a good off topic one; how do you partially wear out a leather jacket? I do like the jacket and it has vents and such that here in middle America will do fine; they and most things are pretty well a joke in the far South and Southwest as vents just blast more of that paint peeling/hair-dryer hot air in instead of cooling you! Finally figured out covering up was in many ways better than trying to get 110 degree with near 100% humidity air flying by at 70 MPH to cool a person.