R model fuses

[Rob Frankham]

On earlier models (/6) there is no screw and the ring just clips into position. I suspect there were issues with this especially with the mass of wires in the shell, and later rings have a screw clip which needs to be loosened before the ring can be pulled off. AS far as I'm aware, neither the headlamp bucket nor the headlamp unit are altered and the later ring should fit the earlier bike without any other modofication.

Rob

[Jean]

I guess the only way to tell on this is just to LOOK for the screw. I finally found a note that this changed sometime in 1973, but the article didn't list serial numbers.
The SNAP-ON ring could become a problem if/when you add more wire inside the shell, too!

[jagarra]

New problem, cannot find the value of the fuses in any of my reference material on the BMW. Are they 8 amps or something higher???

thanks

[SteveD]

New problem, cannot find the value of the fuses in any of my reference material on the BMW. Are they 8 amps or something higher???

thanks

8amp.

[Unclviny]

I went to a vintage, Euro car parts place and ordered a bunch of 8's, I keep a few on the /5 and a few in the garage.

Vince

[richard t]

my owners manual still says 8amp. I bought the glass pointed ones from the local NAPA last time

[dwire]

Yeah, the glass EU style pointed jobs are still a valid BUSS produced fuse in my catalogs... Not 100% sure about the ceramics; (I'd have to look) and since I and so many others here have seen them and BUSS is the largest supplier, I'd guess they're still making them as well, even if no longer selling them under their name...

[Jean]

They are "8".
The "15" you see is a TERMINAL number.

[jagarra]

Well, everything I planned to change wasn't. Ended up going to my local off road VW parts supplier and walked away with 5 8amp fuses for $2.10. Then went to the local electronics supplier and got some large push on females in case I decided to use the new style GM fuse pigtail, also got a 7 amp circuit breaker so I could make a pigtail with alligator clips to check the circuit out. Pulled the boot from the front brake switch, all looked good, switch worked as designed, pulled the rear tail light bulb, all well there. Pulled the rear brake switch flushed it contact cleaner. Installed the circuit breaker jumper in place of fuses and my brake tail light lit up, when activated by the front brake and rear brake switch, nothing popped. Put my shiney new fuses in their holders and all is working as designed.
I guess my old fuse was just tired???
Decided against upgrading the fuses to a newer style as I did find some push on female terminals that would slide over the fuse holder, but the amount of the holder that was available to grab was too little to get a firm grip and not fall off. Only way it would work would be to solder the wires through the existing holes of the fuse holder.
Decided stock was best after all.
Going to go back and buy some more of the 8 ampers, just in case. At least you can get individual sizes with out buying a variety pack.
OH, I'm screwless on the headlamp ring, so it is a pry off/on type.


thanks for all the input.

gg

[Jean]

Experience shows the ceramic fuses do get "tired" as the fusable element is open to the atmosphere and can corrode. Keep the contacts clean, too, to make resistance and heating minimum.
IF you ever DO decide to add stuff inside the shell, be careful of that snap-on ring. Check that the spring catch in the bottom is not bent or damaged and really SNAPS when you press it in place.
You can look around for a screw-on ring and replace it if you like.