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Correct Kurt, here's a photo of the orientation from an unmolested bike: and here' an example of it done wrong by a PO, unfortunately this is on Melvilles bike:

Tim Shepherd wrote:No need for the torch. After removing the disc and associated hardware, I used some mild steel wire to make a 12" loop through the openings of the breather and slid the handle of my small sledge hammer in the loop. A couple swings upward and out popped the breather. Note: the new breather gets mounted with the reed facing forward, away from the vent tube and so it clears the casting.

Brilliant Tim, i tried that exact method but put three loops through and it came out FIRST time. Delighted.

Just waiting for the new unit to arrive and then i can get the bike assembled and ready for it's MOT ( UK annual roadworthiness check )

Thanks . Darryl

Tim Shepherd wrote:Correct Kurt, here's a photo of the orientation from an unmolested bike: /img]

Tim, does that reed valve orientation pictured still apply to my later housing where the inbuilt exit channel is at 12 o clock?

I can see why it needs to be at 10 o clock on the early 2 stud housing as it needs to align with the exit hose. Fitting it at 10 o clock with my 3 stud housing would have it exhausting onto the housing wall.

Not trying to be controversial / argumentitive, just want to make sure that we are not at cross purposes and that i install it correctly for my later 3 stud housing pictured here in my previous post.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/ ... XER038.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/ ... XER037.jpg



Darryl

The example shown is for the earlier bikes, perhaps someone experienced with the later models will chime in.

Darryl -

I think what you will find is there is really only one orientation of the reed and screw because there may be a conflict with the cover and its gasket. You wouldn't want the reed to open facing to the aft of the bike...the air has to turn 180 degrees to get to the exit point. You want a reasonably straight shot of the exiting air to get into the outlet ports. So, just see how the cover is going to fit, have the reed open somewhere to the front, and then you should be good to go.

Kurt in S.A.

Kurt in S.A. wrote:Darryl -

I think what you will find is there is really only one orientation of the reed and screw because there may be a conflict with the cover and its gasket. You wouldn't want the reed to open facing to the aft of the bike...the air has to turn 180 degrees to get to the exit point. You want a reasonably straight shot of the exiting air to get into the outlet ports. So, just see how the cover is going to fit, have the reed open somewhere to the front, and then you should be good to go.

Kurt in S.A.

My thoughts exactly Kurt. If the reed valve will line up correctly with the built in exit moulded in the later housing fitted to my bike,i am putting it facing directly towards that.
Thanks to everyone for their help on this one.

Kind Regards Darryl

Tim Shepherd wrote:Correct Kurt, and here' an example of it done wrong by a PO, unfortunately this is on Melvilles bike:

It makes the cutest <sigh> shen I shut it down.

SO does mine correctly installed

Anyone have any other removal suggestions? Mine isn't budging with the wire and pry bar/ hammer method. Also tried heating casing.This thing is stuck.

Cycle Works sells a puller for $21: