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Ah, MS you're right...GS has a rear drum brake (its shit poor too) so back to the drawing board.

Wonder if you could adapt a rear brake MC (used on some of the post 81 airheads.. Have one on my RS) Then run brake line up to front Brembo or maybe splitter under the tank...be kinda like integrated brake system...front and rear at the same time . Think the GS handlebar MC is 15mm...wonder what would be on rear MC on my RS..hmmm...its for single disc Brembo which is what a GS has up front.

Wish I still had the GS to see how it could be set up.

The twin piston Brembo on a GS is 48 mm, so the six pot 28 mm doesnt get you far.

Some of the Guzzies used an 11 mm master cylinder with two 48 mm Brembo's, and BMW master can be sleeved down to take that piston by any shop that does resleeving. Unfortunately the guy who does them locally has retired

It works well, if you know how to bleed a brake, and will almost double the clamping force of a 15 mm MC.

EBC HH102 pads, or, if you can find them, Brembo's own HH pads, give around 30% more grip than organic pads for the same pressure.

So with the MC and pads you can reduce the force required to about 40 %.

Stock brake levers can be converted to adjustable quite easily - the nose of the lever which contacts the plunger on the end of the MC piston can be ground down flat, a small hole drilled and tapped and a pan head screw packed to suit your requirements.

To help reduce the clutch and brake effort on my conversion I adjusted the grips further out on the bars so that I was grasping the ends of the levers. The further out you pull the levers the more leverage you have. It doesn't take much to make a difference.

Garnet wrote:To help reduce the clutch and brake effort on my conversion I adjusted the grips further out on the bars so that I was grasping the ends of the levers. The further out you pull the levers the more leverage you have. It doesn't take much to make a difference.

Yeah, put a two foot cheater bar on the end of the clutch lever!