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I think that Dreibond Yamabond etc etc seem to be the sealant of choice, it will result in a totally dry cylinder/crankcase seal for many miles.

I use a smear of sealant on the ribbed sections of the pushrod rubber.

Charles

Randy, Did you remove the jugs or just slide 'em back a bit? I have new seals for my R65 but have not moved on the job as yet due to the single dribble being quite small... not enough to spot the floor.

Monte

I would remove the cylinders, as it will be difficult to properly clean and resealant the cylinder/crankcase joint. You should also replace the cylinder and cylinder stud O rings as well, or you will just end up with oil leaks from the cylinders.

So to do the job properly you need the seals, the O rings (as appropriate to your model), head gaskets and a tube of yamabond or dreibond sealant.

I use a piston ring compressor. Others don't!

montmil wrote:Randy, Did you remove the jugs or just slide 'em back a bit? I have new seals for my R65 but have not moved on the job as yet due to the single dribble being quite small... not enough to spot the floor.

Monte

I just pulled the jug back a bit enough to change out the seals. In the past, with a slow leak from a seal, I would spray carb cleaner around the seal to clean the surface. After giving it time to dry, I did what Silicone James would do -- smear some silicone around the push rod seal as best as I could.

Sometime the magic works, sometimes it doesn't.

chasbmw wrote:I would remove the cylinders, as it will be difficult to properly clean and resealant the cylinder/crankcase joint. You should also replace the cylinder and cylinder stud O rings as well, or you will just end up with oil leaks from the cylinders.

So to do the job properly you need the seals, the O rings (as appropriate to your model), head gaskets and a tube of yamabond or dreibond sealant.

I use a piston ring compressor. Others don't!

chasbmw, I did all that last time the !@#$ seals were leaking, but not this time. So far so good.
What you wrote above is probably a good route to go.

I did what ever it was Snowbum said to do. Mine leak, but almost never drip. I'm not convinced that my push rods are engaged in the cylinder the proper distance. How can you tell? Because if they are in the cylinder too far, they won't put as much pressure on the seal side.

enigmaT120 wrote: I'm not convinced that my push rods are engaged in the cylinder the proper distance. How can you tell? Because if they are in the cylinder too far, they won't put as much pressure on the seal side.

On the cylinders I'm looking at, one edge of the pushrod tube is on the same plane as the outer cylinder to head mating surface. I know, kind of hard to check with the heads on the bike...

Tim Shepherd wrote:

enigmaT120 wrote: I'm not convinced that my push rods are engaged in the cylinder the proper distance. How can you tell? Because if they are in the cylinder too far, they won't put as much pressure on the seal side.

On the cylinders I'm looking at, one edge of the pushrod tube is on the same plane as the outer cylinder to head mating surface. I know, kind of hard to check with the heads on the bike...

Good info, though.

The proper installation depth of the pushrod tube is where the most inboard part of the collar on the tube is at the same depth as the large wide flange at the base of the cylinder.

Kurt in S.A.