Boxerworks.com

Duane Ausherman wrote:...

The rivets are not 1/4," as nothing on the bike is SAE. They are 6 mm which is very close to 1/4" but not exact.

Duane, the holes in the cup and hub for the slash six are 0.250". Snowbum notes this in his article, and it is what I found with mine. I assume that when the rivets are squeezed in a press or with impact, they expand to fill the hole. 1/4" bolts fitted perfectly in the holes, almost an interference fit. I had to gently tap some in, and they held the cup very securely before tightening. A 6mm bolt was far too loose in the same holes.

ME 109 wrote: . . . A helper is very handy when it comes to holding the setting tool. (saves yer thumbs)

Not having a helper around I have occasionally pressed my belly into service. (Can't use it for riveting, but I couldn't change a tire without it.)

Ken

Airbear wrote:

moosehead wrote:... I'm real lucky to have a "old school" airhead shop, as well as a good friend, in our rural, way-out-there location. That's another storey in itself...

You are fortunate indeed, Moose. Perhaps sharing that story (including moodily lit pictures, of course) would be a Good Thing for a forum like Boxerworks.

You're right Airbear....don't know about the "mood" lighting though....it is an interesting storey how they ended up setting up their shop in this kinda' "out-of-the-way" location....stay tuned.

The day when Henrik riveted up the rear wheel gear dog I wish I had taken some pix. The whole riveting procedure didn't take longer than 20 min as I recall. My job was to place the wheel in a jig he used to stabilize it during the riveting process. After each rivet was "peened" (?) the wheel was rotated to new position and another rivet was done. In a star pattern as I recall.

He used a 2 part "riveting" tool made out of 2 fairly large steel bars with one end of each bar machined out with slight concave face. One part underneath, held in bloody large vice, mated up with the rivet head, other part placed on rivet and with big hammer and couple of whacks the rivet was set. Did it in a star pattern as I recall. Spent more time lining everything up for each rivet than the actual "peening" process....Jeff, you woulda' been impressed. They were put in cold.

I.m going over to the shop today, I owe him some money , so I'll see if I can get a pic of the "riveting" tool.

BTW, I remember asking him about some of the elongated holes, only on the hub portion, and he said the rivet would take up the slack. Must have for when I put new rubber on after about 5000k's the rear drive dog hadn't budge as I checked that and the splines looked still new. So as to the centring issue I don't know....guess it could be out but after 5,000k's but I didn't see any indications of it.

Ken in Oklahoma wrote:

ME 109 wrote: . . . A helper is very handy when it comes to holding the setting tool. (saves yer thumbs)

Not having a helper around I have occasionally pressed my belly into service. (Can't use it for riveting, but I couldn't change a tire without it.)

Ken

Well, duh. How could you change a tire without your spare?

Major Softie wrote:

Ken in Oklahoma wrote:Not having a helper around I have occasionally pressed my belly into service. (Can't use it for riveting, but I couldn't change a tire without it.)

Well, duh. How could you change a tire without your spare?

That's pretty funny Major.


Ken, conflicted in Oklahoma

Those holes may have been swedged out and ended up being 1/4" but they started out being 6 mm.

Major Softie wrote:

Well, duh. How could you change a tire without your spare?

Major Softie, baldly going where others fear to tread.

moosehead wrote:The day when Henrik riveted up the rear wheel gear dog I wish I had taken some pix. The whole riveting procedure didn't take longer than 20 min as I recall. My job was to place the wheel in a jig he used to stabilize it during the riveting process. After each rivet was "peened" (?) the wheel was rotated to new position and another rivet was done. In a star pattern as I recall.

He used a 2 part "riveting" tool made out of 2 fairly large steel bars with one end of each bar machined out with slight concave face. One part underneath, held in bloody large vice, mated up with the rivet head, other part placed on rivet and with big hammer and couple of whacks the rivet was set. Did it in a star pattern as I recall. Spent more time lining everything up for each rivet than the actual "peening" process....Jeff, you woulda' been impressed. They were put in cold.

I.m going over to the shop today, I owe him some money , so I'll see if I can get a pic of the "riveting" tool.

BTW, I remember asking him about some of the elongated holes, only on the hub portion, and he said the rivet would take up the slack. Must have for when I put new rubber on after about 5000k's the rear drive dog hadn't budge as I checked that and the splines looked still new. So as to the centring issue I don't know....guess it could be out but after 5,000k's but I didn't see any indications of it.

Thanks Moose. When I bought the toothed cup I also bought a set of rivets, but when faced with the task I simply did not know how to proceed. That is an excellent description of the process. I reckon I could do that if the opportunity presented itself again.

ME 109 wrote:

Major Softie wrote: Well, duh. How could you change a tire without your spare?

Major Softie, baldly going where others fear to tread.

Well, ME 109, I kinda understand. With that setup, what could the Major do? It would be the equivalent of the sirens calling to Jason, or a priest finding himself suddenly in a sex club, or a thirsty man crawling across the heated desert spotting a pitcher of ice cold lemonade, or an Aussie coming upon a free beer sign.

The Major, after all, is only human--I think.

Ken