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Roy Gavin wrote:Most electronic tachs have a black wire from the Z terminal to the input side of the coil , and you can add your own wire to replace this, which should avoid any connection issues, and you can also check that you have almost full battery volts at the + terminal, with the motor running.

Mine works fine wired this way.

Most electronic ignitions are programmed to fire exactly 180 degrees apart, and have a good curve, which may give better results than old worn points and AR systems, and dwell is also massaged electronically for maximum spark voltage.

If the issue raises its ugly head, this will be the first thing I try.
Thanks
Brad

I had a problem last year with an R90S where the bike would start and run for a few minutes and then cut out (both cylinders). While on the road, I took out the spark plugs to check the spark. At first when it would crank, I'd get a weak spark, and then nothing. I checked the voltages in and out of both coils and down to the points and everything looked good. I replaced the condenser and the problem was fixed.

Points ignitions are fairly simple affairs. If you're looking for reliable, I'd stick with points. If you're looking for a better spark (better than a good running set of points) or want less maintenance (no setting points and timing that doesn't change once set), then you can go with an electronic system.

Seth wrote:I had a problem last year with an R90S where the bike would start and run for a few minutes and then cut out (both cylinders). While on the road, I took out the spark plugs to check the spark. At first when it would crank, I'd get a weak spark, and then nothing. I checked the voltages in and out of both coils and down to the points and everything looked good. I replaced the condenser and the problem was fixed.

Points ignitions are fairly simple affairs. If you're looking for reliable, I'd stick with points. If you're looking for a better spark (better than a good running set of points) or want less maintenance (no setting points and timing that doesn't change once set), then you can go with an electronic system.

Simple is not the same as reliable. I have spent many hours over the years beside the road, often in the rain, drying distributors and fussing with points. I have never been left anywhere due to a magic ignition - although I did kill one by accident on an early 70s outboard. The early ones were pretty easy to kill.

Just to clarify, the Boyer box has a black wire which goes to the minus - terminal on the first coil, and the black tocho wire connects to this terminal - but it is probably the output.

Roy Gavin wrote:Just to clarify, the Boyer box has a black wire which goes to the minus - terminal on the first coil, and the black tocho wire connects to this terminal - but it is probably the output.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00099.pdf

See wiring diagram on the second page.

Does this place rock or what!

dwerbil wrote:Does this place rock or what!

For sure it does. One little bit of info--electronic ignitions perform best IF a set of points and condenser are carried on the bike, 'just in case.' You'll probably never need to make a retrograde roadside repair SO LONG AS the threat to do so is palpable.

Straighten up and fly right, indeed.

Life is too short to carry spare parts. After a couple hundred thousand miles on motorcycles, having never once been stuck more than a few miles from home, mostly due to flat tires, I am ok without spares. More than half those miles were on Honda's, a kawasaki, and a Bridgestone, that were older than my airheads, but not when I was riding them.

I carry a phone and a credit card.

bbelk wrote:Life is too short to carry spare parts. After a couple hundred thousand miles on motorcycles, having never once been stuck more than a few miles from home, mostly due to flat tires, I am ok without spares. More than half those miles were on Honda's, a kawasaki, and a Bridgestone, that were older than my airheads, but not when I was riding them.

I carry a phone and a credit card.

Keep in mind: those points issues in the past that resulted in you having to repair the bike, would now completely strand you if the electronic ignition dies. Cell phones don't work everywhere.

Electronic ignitions definitely perform better, more consistently, and more reliably than points. They seldom die, but when they do, it's often without warning and usually in the worst possible location - i.e. where there's no service. Besides, even with cell service and a credit card, you could be stranded for days instead of having to spend an hour working on the bike.

Worse yet, there may be no free WIFI when your bike dies.

How will we know when to give you a hard time for traveling without spares?