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For sure, the soldering process was a challenge.
They did last the "lifetime" of the bike, however...
Now it is someone else's problem.
I need to get in touch with Bob to see what became of my basket case.

Why not get things dry and apply an epoxy coating?

A friend had a Laverda with porous engine castings. He used a spatula to cover the areas that were sweating oil, with the epoxy coating. It stopped the sweating.

Zombie Master wrote:Why not get things dry and apply an epoxy coating?

A friend had a Laverda with porous engine castings. He used a spatula to cover the areas that were sweating oil, with the epoxy coating. It stopped the sweating.

I don't think that would hold up to the flexing in this location. Epoxy is good for nice rigid castings with no flexing. I've seen it used to repair automotive float bowls quite frequently.

Major Softie wrote:

Zombie Master wrote:Why not get things dry and apply an epoxy coating?

A friend had a Laverda with porous engine castings. He used a spatula to cover the areas that were sweating oil, with the epoxy coating. It stopped the sweating.

I don't think that would hold up to the flexing in this location. Epoxy is good for nice rigid castings with no flexing. I've seen it used to repair automotive float bowls quite frequently.

But there are a lot of different epoxy products. Some more flexible than others.

Zombie Master wrote:

Major Softie wrote:

Zombie Master wrote:Why not get things dry and apply an epoxy coating?

A friend had a Laverda with porous engine castings. He used a spatula to cover the areas that were sweating oil, with the epoxy coating. It stopped the sweating.

I don't think that would hold up to the flexing in this location. Epoxy is good for nice rigid castings with no flexing. I've seen it used to repair automotive float bowls quite frequently.

But there are a lot of different epoxy products. Some more flexible than others.

Yes there are.

And I still don't think it will work.

A weepy kind of leak as described should be no problem being sealed up with the proper application of Por 15 tank liner system.

Thanks for the advice and tips. Despite negligible soldering experience I went down that path and seem to have had some success.

Because of the awkward position a wire brush wasn't going work very well so, to get down 'behind' the bracket I made a soda blaster (cost: some plastic tube and $2 of bicarb soda). It worked pretty well but a much bigger compressor would have been beaut.

After cleaning the soda away (water) I set the tank up so that the bracket was horizontal and liberally applied flux (Baker's soldering fluid). The most likely solder I own is a stick of old plumber's solder (50/50?) but it was too big to get into position so I shaved pieces from it and stacked them on the bracket above where I needed the solder to run. Some heat from a propane torch applied to the bracket and surrounding metal got the solder to flow down into where the cracks are. A full tank of petrol and a few days later I still have no leaks. I'll let you know if it lasts.

Well done Ray, hope it holds up. Cheap fix too.