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Yes, Ken, I have done it a few times with the oxy torch. The trick is to heat the race enough that it just starts to puddle and move around it sort of keeping the puddle going. The frame paint is ruining, but the race falls out exactly the same as with arc welding.

I seem to remember doing it as a fun test on a frame that was going in for new paint. However, I wouldn't chose to do it that way again and here is why. Once the race is out, one must now protect that cavity from the new paint. The old race can be stuck back in with something that is easy to remove and then the race protects the cavity from the new paint.

Ken in Oklahoma wrote: I would think a stick welder would be nearly impossible to use due to that long welding rod waving around.
Ken

The trick is to cut the welding rod to about 4" long. I use a 2.5mm general purpose electrode.

This has worked for me:



It's a length of 8mm stainless rod, bent using a vise and then cut off to leave that angled point. It won't work on all steering head bearings - some have a too-large radius on the inner edge. For that situation I've resorted to the weld method as ME109 describes, or welding a little piece of flat steel across the bearing and then tapping out with a drift.

Once you get the race out, grind a couple of 1/4" radius notches 180 deg. apart in the ledge that the race seats against. Next time will be easy with a drift.

Great idea George, thanks.

Duane Ausherman wrote:Great idea George, thanks.

That does seem like a good idea!

ME 109 wrote:

Duane Ausherman wrote:Great idea George, thanks.

That does seem like a good idea!

I'm going to chime in too. Good idea.

Ken

I'll be doing that, thanks.

ps: I reckon George must be one of those people who is thinkin' all the time.

Hey Airbear, I made your little 'hook tool' from a 5/16 rod and it worked excellent! The bottom was more difficult than the top and I had to sharpen the point on my tool once but once you get it started moving it's a piece of cake - Rod