Boxerworks.com

bbelk wrote:

SteveD wrote:
2. disconnect each wire and write it's position, and maybe routing, down in a notebook

Good advice but it is so much easier in these modern times to just take lots and lots of pictures.

Do both !

bbelk wrote:

SteveD wrote:
2. disconnect each wire and write it's position, and maybe routing, down in a notebook

Good advice but it is so much easier in these modern times to just take lots and lots of pictures.

That can be helpful, but the headlight wiring can be such a mess, that I suspect pictures can't always help. Grant has sent a text today to say he's already sorted it and moved on to stage next.

Gidday,

Upper fairing now bolted down, new clutch cable went on, speedo pod mounted and lights up like a christmas tree plus mirrors are in place.

Tank, seat, screen and side cover are just sitting there and fits well... I'm getting there piece by piece!!

Let the dirt riding commence!
At least you have the right colour for it.

Since you're redoing the wiring I might suggest that you wire in external fuses to the ones in the headlight bucket.

Easy to do and if you have to change a fuse it's much easier to access the new ones outside the headlight bucket than having to remove the headlight "tunnel" to access the bucket.

Friend of mine had the 2 main fuses remotely mounted in his dashboard. Just unscrewed the cap, removed the fuse to check...bingo. I used the modern spade type fuses with waterproof covering and set them on either side of the headlight bucket...made for easy access. Sorry don't have any pix of the setup.

Gidday,

Well the Keihan Mufflers arrived through the week so I fitted and bolted them up and they certainly are a well made item.
Last night I installed and cut to the correct lengths some new petcock straws as a few were missing and I plumbed up the new fuel lines, connected the battery and hit the stator button.
she just purred into life, quietly ticking over lovely with no hesitations at all until I noticed a slight fuel leak from the cross over line and T connectors on each side, so I shut her down, this I fix today.... Cheers

Gidday,

Today SteveD rolled down the driveway on his immaculately polished n shown up black RS, finally got all that Blue Duck Pub possum piss off it from parking under the tree

The lesson today for me on my old 78 RS was a freshener on valve clearance settings, plus a new to me lesson on points and timing then some carbie adjustments thrown in for good measure.

Anyway after a coffee and a chat we had the valves adjusted up nice which were a little tight on the inlet sides and then we started to play around with the timing and the points gap which was new to us both but with a little reading, trail n error adjustments and general head scratching we got there in the end and had the bike starting and running smoother than when we began and we got the 'S' mark lined up nicely which was good to see.

Then during my final handful of revs on the throttle as it was sounding nice with the new Keihan pipes installed and with the fan keeping things cool, BANG, CRACK and SMOKE billowed from the front end and the diode board shit itself rather instantaneously, we shut her down and disconnected the battery and had a few words to say.. %@*$%@## $%@$# more bloody dollars to spend...

The diode board was the original old one, SteveD noticed that it had previously been repaired and the rubber mounts were very brittle with one snapped in half, so I gather that over the last couple of days with the bike running up on the lift and me giving it a few good herbs on the throttle that it vibrated more than it could handle and shorted out... BANG!!

Better to do it up here on the lift than out back of Omeo said SteveD, wise words!!....
I have now ordered a new one from John Olive in Qld. which should be here in a few days time..

Ok so while I have your attention, what's the go with removing the startor motor for a service and clean up while I am this far in?? Is it straight froward and can you guide me a little with what to do, not the service, just the removal part please as I with give it to the local auto elect to check over.

Bugger about the diode board, Grant. A new one will be nice.
The starter motor is pretty easy to remove, though I do recall that there is one fastening that is tricky to get to. Can't remember whether it is a nut or a bolt - you'll see what I mean when you get in there. Anyway, start by removing the carbs and air box and remove the plastic scoop on the top of the starter cover - grab it, squeeze and twist a bit. Then remove the screws that hold the cover down and you'll be able to shuffle that out. Disconnect the cables and the two fastenings that hold the motor down, and you'll have it in your hand.

Gidday,

Thanks Charlie, thought it may of been a little more involved than that, will give it a shot tonight and get it all sorted asap and it looks like a good clean is needed in there to.

Gidday,

Startor motor now is out on the bench, everything is cleaned up and just waiting for the new diode board and mounts to arrive, plus the auto electrician will get the stator tomorrow to service...

yes is certainly a fiddly little job with those two bolts to access