Boxerworks.com

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 5:49 pm it's a dual-coil. I presume, then, it's the dual 6v serialized coil then?

I've never heard them referred to as serialized.
I always called them wired in series.
The old two 6v in series coils have a very low failure rate, a ton of '70's and 80's airheads I see still have their original coils.
Soaking your coils, spark plug caps and wires with water from a spray bottle while idling is a good ignition test to see if there is any arcing. Do it in a dark place and pay close attention.
The only way to positively test a suspect coil is to replace it with a known good one and see if it resolves the issue.
I've seen many a few coils that passed the bench tests but still had intermittent issues.

Ignition issues with these (2 6v coil) bikes are usually point and condenser related.
I've lost count of how many of these bikes I've seen with points wires shorted or damaged by the cover being un-carefully installed.

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 8:22 pm...the "$2000" o-ring was bent to shit....

The $2000 o-ring is folklore from a not too distant past.
It no longer exists.

Now it's a $6000 o-ring.

gspd wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 8:58 pm

kmisterk wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 8:22 pm...the "$2000" o-ring was bent to shit....

The $2000 o-ring is folklore from a not too distant past.
It no longer exists.

Now it's a $6000 o-ring.

Jeeeeeze. I hope I don't ever have to find that out the hard way.

I have a couple updated videos for you, also..

This first one is how it idles now after the oil change. Higher. This video is sitting in neutral after about a 25 minute ride.



And then another, showing what you had asked about prior, after a warmed-up engine is achieved, rev up to redline for a sec, then chop the throttle.

Video 1....adjust your idle speed to around 1000 rpm (+ or - 50) rpm once fully warmed up
Video 2....could be worse, way, way worse. I could only see one exhaust pipe tho.

gspd wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 11:05 pm Video 1....adjust your idle speed to around 1000 rpm (+ or - 50) rpm once fully warmed up
Video 2....could be worse, way, way worse. I could only see one exhaust pipe tho.

Yeah, I'll need to have my wife help me get both of them.

Thank you, again, for your help. It's been...well. Very helpful.

The old saw is that, if the smoke is black, it's an over rich mixture, if it has a blueish tinge, it's oil, if it's white it's water vapour.

Not bad as a rule of thumb...

Rob

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 4:52 am The old saw is that, if the smoke is black, it's an over rich mixture, if it has a blueish tinge, it's oil, if it's white it's water vapour.
Not bad as a rule of thumb...
Rob

Not bad rule of thumb.
should add...
White is also from antifreeze burning from a liquid cooled engine
Black can also be built up carbon deposits dislodging

Let's not forget that parking on the sidestand will usually allow some oil to get past the rings on the low side.
Use the centerstand whenever possible.
This means possible maintenance and/or repair of the current centerstand.
The large pivot holes can become out-of-round, also, the feet can become flat. The latter will eventually prevent the bike from achieving full height. That can be fixed with some plate and weld.

Rob wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 8:46 am Let's not forget that parking on the sidestand will usually allow some oil to get past the rings on the low side.
Use the centerstand whenever possible.

I never use the side stand. I attempted to once when I had to simply get up to put in a gated-entry code, and the bike almost tipped. Center-stand only for me.

Rob wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 8:46 am This means possible maintenance and/or repair of the current centerstand.
The large pivot holes can become out-of-round, also, the feet can become flat. The latter will eventually prevent the bike from achieving full height. That can be fixed with some plate and weld.

Hmm. I'll have to see how mine look. How high is "full height"?

gspd wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 7:09 am Black can also be built up carbon deposits dislodging

I actually think this was happening after the oil change, to at least *partially* contribute to the black smoke, as I had seen a couple of chunks of black particulate fly off the end of the pipe, and when I tried to pick it up, it disintegrated between two fingers.

Rob Frankham wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 4:52 am The old saw is that, if the smoke is black, it's an over rich mixture, if it has a blueish tinge, it's oil, if it's white it's water vapour.

Seems a lot of the same coloration recognition colors hold true from Automotive trends, too, then.

Stands on /5 and above airheads are problematic. But like your x, we have to live with them. The centerstand is mounted to frame tubes, that are too close together to provide a wide and stable base on uneven surfaces. Soft surfaces can cause tip overs when you least expect it.

So It is essential to have a good working side stand if you want to be able to park on all surfaces. Newer BMWs like the GS1200 are ridiculously easy to put on the center stand, but that is a totally different design, on a much less attractive motorcycle.

I’m sure there is not one experienced rider on the forum, who has not ridden away with their side stand down at some point. It can be a deadly mistake.

Many Airheads also have side stands that may not work well.

All modern bikes have electrical lockouts that will not let you ride away with the side stand down. This is a very good thing. Before the electric lock out, BMW’s attempt to add a return spring to automatically return the side stand was not successful. But try they did!

On my 1984 R100S, the side stand is a gorgeous casting, including a grease fitting, mounted to a cast frame tube fixture. To examine it, is to be impressed, and this feature alone would make you want to own a BMW. Don’t work worth shit after a couple of weeks of use though. So I did what many have done, and bought a Browns side stand (there are others), which works a treat, but will not auto return. Hardly a perfect solution.

After a few weeks of regular use, the original side stand leans the bike over too far. I have left it on my bike for use on hilly spots where it comes in handy in some situations, but you have to keep the stand pushed out against the spring tension, in order to employ it, while you balance the bike. I have seen more than a few riders fall down “laugh in” style attempting this. Not acceptable.

But you must have a good working side stand in order to be able to park on uneven pavement or soft surfaces. These are touring bikes! Who knows where you’ll end up?

Your bike spends most of it’s life propped up on its center stand.

So before I start any major service, where the bike is going up, on a bike lift, the first thing I do is a careful inspection of the center stand. I have replaced bushings and mounting bolts. I have removed the stand and welded more metal on the contact points to keep it working properly, and it gets greased. I do all this, and the stand is at best, adequate.

In my 50 years of riding Airheads I have never had the left cylinder smoke from being parked on the side stand. If the side stand supports the bike at der fatherland designated lean angle, it should never smoke, unless there are other problems with the engine…. IMNSHO.