Boxerworks.com

Duane Ausherman wrote:And here I was just honoring, uh, Vanzen by using his name as he does. Just for you ken, I will comply with convention.

Thanks, duane !

I just got an email back from a importer. They can supply one of these for $148 + 13 Postage. Pretty good value for over here.
Sterob

Sterob, my thoughts on that brace are: If the sole intention of a fork brace is to stop the forks moving in or out (widening or narrowing), it may be ok.
But I believe that a fork brace should also prevent the forks from 'walking', in which case I don't like that brace because of the joints.
Edit, And I don't like it because it attaches to the fork sliders with clamps.

But what do I know, I thought my bike handled pretty well with a banged up front end from hitting a kangaroo.....

You may be right Jeff.....There does seem to be quite a large surface area that the centre section is butted up against, so I would have thought that would help prevent the sliders twisting the brace somewhat.
Sterob

And.........that fork brace sits too high on the fork sliders.

The original mounting points for a fork brace are 4" lower, which is about halfway between the triple tree and the axle when the bike is on its wheels.....makes sense.

The trouble with bracing the forks halfway between the triple tree and the axle is that it requires the brace to have 'legs' so as to be able to go over the wheel and down to the 'middle'

If the brace pictured had the clamps at the top of the fork tubes and extended down to the original mounting points as well, it would be more effective, however the joints at the top can only succumb to wear which would make it no better than the original pie plate.

Ideally a fork brace should have zero flex, but given the required structural shape of a brace to fit the original mounting points, that is a very tall order.

Ideally the top of a brace should be thick enough to resist any twist imposed by the legs.

Given that the mounting points on the fork sliders are only about 3/8"? diametre, there is not a lot of area to provide a solid mount, and those mounting points may not necessarily be on the same plane either, which is just one factor that complicates mounting a brace perfectly.

It's a little bit here, and a little bit there that adds up to an amount of flex sufficient to cause troubles.

Perfectly aligned fork tubes in the triple tree is the beginning point that will tolerate a 'less than rock solid' fork brace.

I think the design effectiveness of the top plate leaves a lot to be desired.
The design cannot prevent 'walking' of the fork tubes. A clamp type billet top plate is not perfect either, although the best one on the market will surely be ok

You already know this Sterob, I'm just prattling on.

Vanzen, what's up with your website?

Motorworks have them for a bit less - just stock up on cheap service items to cover the postage.

SJ IS taking offers on Ebay for top triples too - I just landed one here for less than $140-.

Got a piccy or a link of that top triple Roy?
I think I'd put a billet top plate on before a new fork brace. But that's just me.

ME 109 wrote:Got a piccy or a link of that top triple Roy?
I think I'd put a billet top plate on before a new fork brace. But that's just me.

Group buy to Oz? Open, then click on CC products..

http://www.sjbmw.com/parts.asp?bid=29#s ... p=1&pid=32

Interesting Steve, I wonder what the word is about that particular top plate?
Any movement at the clamps negates any benefit.
The CC plate shown would be better than the oe, at least.
I would like to see a double bolt clamp, does anyone make them?