Boxerworks.com

enigmaT120 wrote:

justoneoftheguys wrote:An R60/6 might be the superior motorcycle here.

How do you figure that?

Possibly more torque, definitely more flywheel.

enigmaT120 wrote:I would do what the Major said, 3rd gear and 6 grand and it would go up the hill.

Oh yeah, NOT 5th gear! That would just be torturing the poor thing!

Anyone done any gravel roads on the Metzler Lasertec road tyres?

boxertwinjeff wrote:Anyone done any gravel roads on the Metzler Lasertec road tyres?

Road tyres will take you just about anywhere.
When gravel or sand gets deep, all tyres are shit on an airhead, except for maybe a GS.
But who needs one of those!

These two RS's have. Lasertec front.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... UURSyVcF-A

Lasertec front



Lasertec front



Lasertec front



Lasertec front

Thats good to know as I'm relocating to Newman W.A. (my employer thank god is paying the freight on my bike!)
and apparently theres some nice National Parks with Gorges and Waterfalls around the area,
like 150kms away which are accessible only by maintained Gravel roads. I'm running Lasertecs
both front and rear, should I drop tyre pressure at all when riding on Gravel? Is there any technique
to riding on Gravel roads ?

boxertwinjeff wrote:Is there any technique to riding on Gravel roads ?

No kneesliding.

i dont know what lazertecs are like on gravel, but they are bloody awful on UK roads.

I used to use K70s on my old airheads when travelling on gravel roads, I cant say that i really enjoyed riding on W.A.'s gravel roads, i think that you need an open throttle and a tight arse. at least gravel is better than sand..........

boxertwinjeff wrote: Is there any technique to riding on Gravel roads ?

Stay out of the deep stuff.
Don't try and break hard going around corners.
Higher revs in areas of uncertainty.
Watch out when crossing the centre mound between two wheeltracks, it can be deep.
Travel at an appropriate speed for the given situation, 15-170 kph is good
Hard braking is possible (in a straight-ish) line where loose material is minimal, usually in a wheeltrack.
Don't try to alter your course abruptly at speed.
Be prepared to GAS IT to recover control/maintain control/know you're alive!

All the above can be encountered in 1 klm.

I've had a couple of sets of Lasertecs on my R75/7 and the were better than I expected on gravel.

I ran them around 24/26 psi and they were OK on gravel and black top at that.

I don't ride with groups, so I am free to set my own pace on dirt, and I err well on the side of caution.

But I haven't put the bike down on dirt tracks in 15 years.

I am quite comfortable with both wheels moving around a bit , so at corners I just forget that I have brakes, keep the power on and look at he vanishing point round the corner, and the bike just follows my eyes round the corner.

The problem with high speeds on bumpy tracks on an airhead is the unsprung weight at the rear - it is hard to set it soft enough for decent compliance and still have any control over bumps at higher speeds, particularly on twin shock bikes.

An if you have hit the odd soft spot at high speed it will discourage you from any further foolishness - if you are lucky enough still to be around.

enigmaT120 wrote:
That is a lot to haul on an R65 though.

I hope You are talking about the dog.

chasbmw wrote: i think that you need an open throttle and a tight arse.

And back brakes.