Boxerworks.com

Major Softie wrote: Can't take the heat.

Shame because if you had an end plate that was not truly flat the "solder method" could be ultimately quite accurate if carried out with a plastic material that didn't stress the end plate. How about some sort of instant gasket that could take the heat and set stiff enough to measure.

As much as I like the idea of useing solder or the Cycleworks putty stuff, Roy makes a very good point,

"Haynes and Clymer have the end float at 4 thou, without stating if it is to the inner or the outer race, the factory manual says two thou to the (unloaded) outer race , so if you intend loading the bearing by asking it to compress a few bits of solder before you measure it might be wiser to go for the larger end float - a bearing that has been run without sufficient end float can get hot enough to turn on the shaft and in the housing, making a mess of both!"

Anything put in there to measure between the bearings and cover is going to preload the bearings. They should be measured in a relaxed state. I suppose that you could measure the play in the bearings and the flex in the cover, but then you are getting into a bunch of calculations and some guess work that are more complex that using the proper measureing plate.

Jeff said,
Also factor in the 'pre existing' distortion I have observed in my cover.
I put one of Cycle Work's parallels across the input and output pockets. It rocks. Meaning, my cover is bowed inwards.

Have you figured out yet what you are going to do with those nifty things?
Did you catch a fish bigger than the pair of them?

Garnet wrote:

Jeff said,
Also factor in the 'pre existing' distortion I have observed in my cover.
I put one of Cycle Work's parallels across the input and output pockets. It rocks. Meaning, my cover is bowed inwards.

Have you figured out yet what you are going to do with those nifty things?
Did you catch a fish bigger than the pair of them?

Nah, I drank beer instead.
I looked for my choice bait (dragonfly larvae) under the river rocks at the edge of the river but they were absent.
My mate Jim persisted and found a couple, and caught two nice trout.
I got to drink more beer than he did tho.

Trouble with the parallels is that they are 1-1/8" tall. (6" x 1/2" x 1-1/8") The dohickey kindly loaned to me by Ray is 1" measuring limit. oh well.

Product 5/10


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MOLD-A-GAUGE
$7.00
Non-stick, non-shrink, heat cured material, used to measure the end play of the input, intermediate, and output shafts on the /2 /5 /6 /7 R26 R27 and probably other BMW transmissions. It (and your transmission) has to be heated to 275F (135C) for 25 minutes (oven). You will need a caliper (preferably dial) to measure the thickness of the cured MOLD-A GAUGE. Replaces Matra numbers 504 5061 and BMW 23 3 650. Enough for at least 4 transmissions.

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Saw that product at Cycle Works Chas. It sounded good until I read the required temp for setting the putty.
135c is bloody hot! Probably enough to melt the seal on.......whatever bearing has the oil seal.

We've sent a bloke to the moon (apparently ) yet we don't have a putty that sets in 10 minutes @ room temp.
It just seems silly to have to heat the whole tranny like that.

Knead-It radiator and fuel tank repair.
selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-multi-purpose

kutter wrote:Knead-It radiator and fuel tank repair.
selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-multi-purpose

It's the "hardens in 5 - 10 minutes" that's the problem, and that is, of course, accelerated by heat. A similar product that hardens in 2 hours could be perfect. Of course, the stuff also glues metal together, so you'd want to spray the whole area with silicone or mold release.

You can slow down the cure a bit buy reducing the amount of hardener, once you work out which colour strip is the hardener.

The idea for epoxy came from a Oilhead GS Forum .

The factory preload on the GS final drives were a mile out , and if it wasnt fixed the final drive destroyed itself.

BMW didn't want to know, of course, so everybody needed a simple way of measuring the preload, without the factory tool.
Someone called DMAN devised a accurate system which required a dial gauge and holder, and the epoxy system gave almost identical results.

Someone else set up a rig and tested how far the outer race ( the big one on the final drive) moved when it was loaded with the same load required to compress four lengths of solder.
The load was around 300/500 lbs depending on the type and size of the solder, and the movement was 6 to 8 thou.
I dont know if this would apply with the smaller gearbox bearings, and I dont intend trying to find out.

How much does the proper tool (plate) cost? Within a given country, I would think they could be shared, somewhat. As in, someone needing to use one would pay a portion of the cost, much like a rental, to the person who had stepped up and bought one. Say, maybe 20% of the cost of buying the plate.

Chuey