'82 R100RS 1MK Restoration

[Toga]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your feedback, as ive read further here I note, as far as the frame goes that it realy boils down to how much m/c experience the individual powder coater has. Seems to be a 50/50.

Now please correct me if im wrong, the main issue of thought as far as powder coating the mags is the potential they may become brittle ? ... due to the heat forces of the p/c process ?

A gent ive run across claims to have p/coated no less than 20 snowflakes. He has put me in touch with 1 owner whom has had 3 beemer's done. I look forward to seeing the results & how they have handled whatever age since being done.
He has quoted a very reasonable $320 to p/c the lot.

Im still sitting on the fence with my choice's but am leaning @ 80% p/c frame & 50% p/c mags v's paint

Moving on with various things & Q's -

These are the original stantions, the original factory finish lasted 650,000k before they required resurfacing. This is the result of a further 320,000k.
I am waiting on a quote to resurface them again to wiegh up $$ v's $$$new ones.
What are your thoughts regarding resurfacing for a 2nd time ?


3 out of 4 rockers are pitted & req attention. I recall these can be 'polished'... I also recall they have been, so must double check tolerance.


The next thing I noticed brought back a huge recall of info... I have since read and confirmed this, to an extent ...
So again I ask to correct me if my understanding is incorrect...
A couple of years back I had a bit of mod work done by a fellow of high reputation that included; full top end rebuild, replace Bings with 42mm Mikuni flats, custom making over size headers going straight through to a very open variety of Staintune... more a Ducati style muffler.



I was told that the standard airfilter / box would probaly be too restrictive with the new heavier breathing gear and that I should consider alternatives. Also told that this could lead to mid/high range flatness as it struggles for air, thus burning too richly... as evidenced by -

What are your thoughts here ? ... has anyone else put on flat slides ?... or is using non BMW airbox's / cone style air filters ??

OK OK ... enough work, Happy Snaps Anyone ? ... but first another quick story -

In 1990 I had some electrical drama's which led me to take the bike to a dealer. The very instant the mechanic saw my RS his jaw dropped & he went flush faced... sort of stuttering.. sh#t, omfg ... as he walked over he pulled out a business card, looked down then looked at me as he folded the business card in half. He said, and I qoute - "Mate your fuc#ing lucky to be alive, check this out !" ... as he leaned down to the front wheel. He inserted the folded business card into a 3mm crack in the front alloy hub as he proceeded to tell me how this particular mag had been recalled many years earlier. It did not have the re-enforced hub struts. I had travelled 250,000k ! ... and yes, BMW did replace the front mag n/c.

Taken when still under 50k -

Taken when over 500k - note diff pipes & screen, paint fade, natural sandblasting & fairing damage.

Spot the RS -


Cheers
Joe

[ME 109]

Big adventures with your RS Joe.

The answers to many of your questions is dependent on your budget. There are a lot of good parts available on German ebay. A set of four good condition rockers including bearings and shafts will cost you 100-125 dollars.
A complete fork setup comprising stauntions, springs, sliders, triple tree, top plate, bar clamps for 200.....
Postage is on top of course. Postage on the forks is about 120 or so.
Complete clutch, good friction plate, pressure plates, spring plate for 75.
There is heaps available.

I just run the 40 bings, they're good enough for me.

My main concerns for powder coating are that the surface may go milky over time, and that once chipped, water can migrate underneath.

What on earth happened to your stauntions?

[khittner1]

I would just get new fork tubes. I don't know how those would've kept oil in the sliders. The original tubes were skinny enough that I wouldn't be polishing off any more metal to try and smooth them, particularly with grooves as deep as those appear to be. Apart from the material's wear, after that many kms. and multiple refinishings, I'd wonder if metal fatigue could conceivably become a legitimate concern. I'd want a real metalurgist to tell me that I'm wrong before I'd re-use those tired veterans.

[ME 109]

Joe, a complete top end rebuild a couple of years ago........did you mean a couple of decades ago?

[Toga]

Hi,

The picture makes the vertical marks to be much worse than they are.
The pitting was becoming that bad it would virtually tear new seals within a thousand clicks. The bike was in ACT and home was here in Tweed 1200k away. So I installed heavy duty - slightly undersized fork seals, harley ones i think were like .5mm smaller dia & .3mm higher profile, and rode it home. That scuffing is from this last 1200k and fairly superficial imo.

The front end was the main reason for taking her off the road... the top end, g/b & f/d were done about 45k previously (2yrs before taken off road + 3 and half yrs in box's till now) ... but the bottom end & main bearings were now +400k . She was running rough and lazy, prolly from my less than professional carby sync's & perhaps the airflow situation I suggested earlier... either way, it was time for a refresh... back then... and here we are, now.

After saying all that, I also wondered the same thing khittner as far a metal stress goes. I think they will be added to my art supply collection of materials ... hmmm an eclectic mirror frame perhaps ?

Thx me109, I havnt looked at ebay germany yet... doh, bit bloody obvious Toga

Cheers
Joe

[Duane Ausherman]

Wow, that's some miles. We do miles over here in the US of A.

Just ask and we will be glad to help out. Don't worry, we know everything. If we don't know, then we make up an answer.

Keep us informed.

I have never ridden a BMW that new.

[Toga]

Hi Duane,

TBH, I was actually born in Horseheads NY and migrated with my late mother to Oz in '73.

I have just started reading your site, what are your thoughts regarding the whole flat slide/carbi/air intake scenario ive mentioned ?

I have only ridden 1 BMW ... a long way

Cheers
Joe

[chasbmw]

If you bike is not running lean, then I would leave your airbox alone. It's most likely oil burning on your pistons.

Have you done a high speed plug check to check mixture on the main jet?


If you want to do something then....
Jim Cray, the tuner who did the work to my 1070 bike adapts the air boxes on his specials by cutting 4x 1 1/2 diametr holes into the top of the airbox and reducing the length of the intake trumpets by half. This requires the use of a waterproof air filter and he fits a K&N. He also fitted larger main jets.

This is in the UK where dust and sand is not so much an issue. I would not fit individual POD filters to the carbs, this will likely result in worse performance and the carb should really be supported at both ends.

[Toga]

Thanks for your thoughts chas,

I have read about air filter intake mod's. I dont feel i have to do anything at the moment. More to the point, as I continue to get back in the swing of being more hands on it refresh's forgotten thoughts. I could be over thinking things but that would have to be better than forgetting/missing/ignoring something that does require attention.
Tight budget = If it is broken, dodgy or dangerous - fix it, if it is rough - clean & tune it.

OK so I took the engine & some bits and visited Michael over the weekend... it was the expected mixed bag... with more to come im sure. He is interested & keen which I found motivating.

I showed him the 1st of the problems I found when going over things, the rotor hex bolt had been mungreled and looked like an attempt was made to drill / tap it out. We stuffed about for 20mins to no avail... not off to a great start.

The 2 exhaust valve shafts were 5-6thous out, rockers within tolerance but require refacing, barrels in extremely good nic but the push rod tubes poorly rusty & req replacing.
I will get the heads done with new valves, springs, guides & unleaded seats.
Pitsons though they look crusty like everything else, they are low k's & will be reused with new rings.

We will get a better idea of the bottom end when Michael gets it stripped down. Although the clutch looks a tad crusty it has yet to be fully bedded in.. cleaned up will be 95% as new. Overall he was rather pleased with what he has seen so far.

Here are some more crusty goodness shots of "before" ...





I might be slow, but I am pumped ... im no mechanic to speak of but am enjoying the process.
Looking forward to posting pics of "after" ...
Much more looking forward to riding her again...

[She'llbe]

Hey Joe, I just happen to have a brand new set of SS pushrod tubes that might fit your motor. I'll have a fossick around and see if I have any other bits you might need.