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Ken in Oklahoma wrote:
Well, ME 109, I kinda understand. With that setup, what could the Major do? It would be the equivalent of the sirens calling to Jason, or a priest finding himself suddenly in a sex club, or a thirsty man crawling across the heated desert spotting a pitcher of ice cold lemonade, or an Aussie coming upon a free beer sign.

The Major, after all, is only human--I think.

Ken

moosehead wrote:Did one 2 years ago on a 78 /7. Replaced rear wheel dog gear (from motobins) and used rivets (also from motobins).

Nastiest part was removing old rivets. Dremel, drills and hammers got it done. Local shop had the correct riveting tools to work with rivets.

However, if did it again would use nut and bolt technique as outlined by Airbear and covered by snowwbum. Reason...found most of the holes slightly elongated from wear and rivets seemed loose to me before the riveting was done, then seem to tighten up ok. Put at least 5,000 Km's on it and they were snug....however, if holes in hub are elongated I would be drilling out a hole slightly larger and use a sized nut and bolt instead...seems pretty straight forward to me.

BTW, replaced the rear drive splines at the same time as well. Got the part from motobins and local airhead shop cut off the old one and welded on new one and re shimmed the drive. Cost me $100 for the labour for both the replacing rear drive spline and riveting of rear wheel drive dog. Parts I think were about $250 from motobins. I'm real lucky to have a "old school" airhead shop, as well as a good friend, in our rural, way-out-there location. That's another storey in itself...

moosehead wrote:

How's is Al doing anyway?

?????.....don't know who you're referring to.

moosehead wrote: ↑Tue Jan 21, 2014 8:47 am The day when Henrik riveted up the rear wheel gear dog I wish I had taken some pix. The whole riveting procedure didn't take longer than 20 min as I recall. My job was to place the wheel in a jig he used to stabilize it during the riveting process. After each rivet was "peened" (?) the wheel was rotated to new position and another rivet was done. In a star pattern as I recall.

He used a 2 part "riveting" tool made out of 2 fairly large steel bars with one end of each bar machined out with slight concave face. One part underneath, held in bloody large vice, mated up with the rivet head, other part placed on rivet and with big hammer and couple of whacks the rivet was set. Did it in a star pattern as I recall. Spent more time lining everything up for each rivet than the actual "peening" process....Jeff, you woulda' been impressed. They were put in cold.

I.m going over to the shop today, I owe him some money , so I'll see if I can get a pic of the "riveting" tool.

BTW, I remember asking him about some of the elongated holes, only on the hub portion, and he said the rivet would take up the slack. Must have for when I put new rubber on after about 5000k's the rear drive dog hadn't budge as I checked that and the splines looked still new. So as to the centring issue I don't know....guess it could be out but after 5,000k's but I didn't see any indications of it.