Woo Hoo! A Big Project!

[Deleted User 62]

Wipe them really clean with alcohol or the like before firing it up, or any fingerprints will rapidly turn brown. Don't ask me how I know!

THANK YOU!!!

Just to confirm, Rob, I was talking about stainless headers... "OEM" are chrome and a whole different story.

[melville]

Wipe them really clean with alcohol or the like before firing it up, or any fingerprints will rapidly turn brown. Don't ask me how I know!

THANK YOU!!!

Just to confirm, Rob, I was talking about stainless headers... "OEM" are chrome and a whole different story.

I know exactly how you know, and it took a good day of buffing, a stick of compound, and my 8" buff is now under 6" to destroy the evidence!

[Deleted User 287]

Wipe them really clean with alcohol or the like before firing it up, or any fingerprints will rapidly turn brown. Don't ask me how I know!

THANK YOU!!!

Just to confirm, Rob, I was talking about stainless headers... "OEM" are chrome and a whole different story.

Thanks Tim.

I think I may wipe down my chrome ones anyway. One can't be too careful with brand new shiny bits.

[melville]

Yeah, not much to report today. My nightmares have taken new form:







I think the cab section was sold locally a couple years ago as part of an antique garbage truck. Yes, it can be driven from the roof(!!!).

Here's the big MC news:



Street legal!

[ME 109]

Excellent Melville, a job well done.

Now for a ground up resto on the license plate!

[melville]

OK, a couple details:

My local Airhead guy got a battery in for me. He called it "maintenance free," so I didn't expect it to be an AGM unit. I was a little worried when it appeared a bit narrower and taller than the old "wet" battery, but those were more features than they were problems. Dealt with taller this way:



And narrower meant this is possible:





Indeed, I shit you not--the battery can be removed out the top! No more disassembling the whole intake tract.

Other pluses are semi captive nuts so only one wrench is needed to make connections at the terminals, and that can be done with a nutdriver from above.

I'd made some choke pulls out of bicycle spokes, but I really wanted them to be joined with hot molten metal. I took a welding class this past semester, and the instructor had some design advice and some silver braze. The new ones are on the right, an old one on the left:



Some clean-up of the flux was necessary, so a couple thwacks mit the hammer, some ScotchBrite, and some time on the buffer got me to here:





Putting the SS crimp in line with the pull also solved another potential problem of the item vibrating in the hole. Pleased to see that it fit right in:



I polished the other petcock body this morning, installed both in the tank, rehosed it, and was rewarded with this (click for video, and turn the sound UP!):



I think things are going to run like so--finish the remaining details next weekend, and I should have mufflers the weekend after. Looking forward to some moto mobility!

[She'llbe]

Short but sweet.

[Deleted User 62]

It Lives!!! Woo Hoo!

[Deleted User 72]

Ahem,...after cleaning up (soda blast) those rusty bits, try some "Rub 'n' Buff" on 'em. They'll look pretty. Like the rest of it.

[Deleted User 287]

I tried to find some of those pinch bolts for my enrichner controls, but failed to turn any up. It seems they changed the design.

When I put my wire controls on, I ended up JB Welding the tips to the updated version of the pinch bolts.
They work, but I would rather have done it the "right" way.

Oh, and I left my adjuster screws in place on the carb top as an additional guide for the wire.

Looking at that picture, I see that the adjuster could have been screwed in from the bottom, and then the cable-rest would not be up there to catch debris.
But with that JB Weld, there is no going back.