Omega Electronic ignition module...NLA!!

[Garnet]

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal. ... =&bike=991

http://www.rockypointcycle.com/Merchant ... ry_Code=B8

[boxertwinjeff]

Dont know whether its due to now having to start a larger engine, but she's not kicking over
as easy as she did, this is an upgrade I have on my list, so wh'os got the best price on the Omega E.I. System?
Cheers Jeff.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

Dont know whether its due to now having to start a larger engine, but she's not kicking over
as easy as she did, this is an upgrade I have on my list, so wh'os got the best price on the Omega E.I. System?

Jeff, I'm afraid I don't understand your post. What do you mean by "kicking over"? Do you mean that the starter is laboring in turning the engine flywheel? If so are you still using the original 8 tooth /5 starter and flywheel? Or have you changed to a later flywheel which uses the more powerful 9 tooth starter? I can't imagine how any ignition system in and of itself will have an affect on turning the engine over.

A dragging starter can also cause sluggish engine turn over, as can a bad battery or battery connections.

On the other hand,by "kicking over", perhaps you mean that the engine is turning over well enough, but the engine has a hard time firing and catching? That could be an ignition problem which might or might not be solved by an Omega or other aftermarket ignition. It could also be incorrect timing, bad points, condenser, coils, plug wires, or carburetor problems.

Or are you just saying that you have the hots for an Omega?


Ken

[boxertwinjeff]

I mean the latter Ken, yes seems to take more time now to fire up & catch,
anyway I'll sort it when I get home. I did have it suggested
a couple of years ago that this would be a really worthwhile upgrade, and as we're planning
on touring Tasmania in Feb, thought I'd research the E.I. options for the reliability factor alone.
They rate the Omega pretty highly though their quite expensive here. Checked ebay Germany, UK, & the US
with no luck so far.

[chasbmw]

In terms of back up etc etc, I would think 3 times before buying an ignition system that may no longer be in production. The 'Breigal old-timer' business is pretty small (I've been there) I read somewhere that they were trying to sell or have sold the ignition business.

What did worry me about the design was the incorporation of the 'black box' onside the front cover as it does get hot in there.
Charles

[Airbear]

Gidday Jeff
I bought an Omega for my 90/6 about a year ago, from Munich's in Perth, paying the $400 they are still asking. I was delighted with it after some teething troubles - more power, much smoother engine and no having to file points at the side of the road(there's a long story attached to my vibe issues, to do with a butchered points cam). Now, just recently the Omega has been giving trouble - losing spark when the engine gets hot, then starting again after a few minutes of cooling down. I am very glad I kept the points and fitted a toggle switch to flick back to them. I still haven't sorted out what is going wrong - might be my old original coils (37 years old) being on the edge of breakdown, or might be (as Chas states) to do with the unit getting too hot under the timing cover. It might be possible to extend the wires from the sender and mount the electronics outside the timing chest. For the time being I'm running on points without problems apart from the vibe issue.

The Silent Hektik system looks really good but is more expensive. It comes with coils.

ps: Let us know when you are travelling to Tassie - there is a good network of Boxerworks members right down through NSW and Vic, happy to provide accommodation and support to others afflicted with old BMWs.

[boxertwinjeff]

Thanks alot Airbear!, I'll make a point of catching up with you guys when traveling
through NSW / VIC next year. Having worked the last 2 off seasons in the Victorian Alpine region,
Mt. Hotham/Falls Creek, and having had a good look 'round, I'm keen to run this beautiful
area on my bike, along with the NSW Alps region. Can't wait for Tassie though!!
Re Omega: yeah that sounds a worry with possible folding of the Supplier.., as usual,
the problem of " which system do I now choose " pops up.
Can anyone rate the Dyna System?.. was told to stay away from the Boyer System. Jeff.

[Garnet]

".. was told to stay away from the Boyer System. Jeff."

The only real downside of the Boyer is that it is nearly impossible to kick start. Reliability wise they are at least as good as any of the other options. I have run them on a few bikes since 1979 and not had a failure.

Crank trigger would be nice, but faith in equipment (for me) is most important.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

Can anyone rate the Dyna System?.. was told to stay away from the Boyer System.

I'm not a fan of the Dyna system. Put a Dyna III on my R100/7. The rotating part of the ignition mounts onto the centrifugal advance mechanism in a very cheesy manner with a couple set screws. If I got the set screws to tight the advance mechanism bound up. But I finally got it working.

Then came the task of moving the two hall effect sensors around, trying to get the two timing marks on top of each other. They were mounted in a very cheesy way to the backing plate. To move a sensor you had to loosen two screws and then when it was loose it would move all over hell because of all the slop in the mounting method. I never did quite get the timing marks on top of each other and gave up in disgust, figuring that what I had was good enough.

It was, but the Dyna left me stranded on the road on a hot Oklahoma summer day. No spark. Hauled the bike home and found out that the mounting of the hall trigger to the advance came undone and I lost all timing. I finally figured out that I needed to rotate the hall trigger relative to the centrifugal advance about a degree or so to keep the set screws off of a slanted surface. The instructions said nothing that would clue me in to the critical nature of getting the trigger located just right on the advance.

At that point all was well, and I was accepting more and more of the blame for the failure. Then, a handful of months later the bike wouldn't start. No warning, no drama, the bike just didn't start. Troubleshooting revealed that the electronics box had died a sudden, but uneventful death.

I hooked the points back up and then lived happily ever after.

Except for the occasional need to rant about the Dyna.

I carry a spare set of points, condenser, and a 12V bulb with wires tipped with alligator clips in the tool box. I don't worry about ignitions very much now.


Ken

[chasbmw]

I have the basic Boyer on my R90/6, just comeback from a trip to Greece with aussi type temps 35-40C , with no probs. I have also used boyers on other bikes since 1973! Withno probs todate. I understand that the old Boyer issue of reverting to full advance with low battery voltages havebeen fixed.

My 1070 bike has the silent hektik system as I wanted to play with advance curves, however it is very very expensive so went back to Boyer on the 90/6. Both bikes are dual plugged.