Yes, what you say makes sense.
But what I understand is, putting additional preload on the pushrod moves the lever further away from the ideal of being parallel to the transmission case.
I will keep playing with it.
Wouldn't I need to heat it up to bend it? And then, would I be changing it's temper and need to consider things de re metallica?
Things which I know nothing, by the way.
Measuring a frame for straightness
that was just a tap
Heck, I can do that in a with a few hammers blows, it didn't even break or rip out the studs.
I doubt that bent your frame if that was the only impact you subjected the bike to.
I doubt that bent your frame if that was the only impact you subjected the bike to.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Both fork tubes were bent and the left leg reflector broke out.
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Someone asked about what parts I reused in the rebuild.
I replaced a 1980 engine with a 1981.
I removed the clutch carrier and installed my heavy flywheel so I could keep using my old transmission.
So everything on the back of the transmission should be the same. I used the same clutch parts as before.
The only differences now is that I have Nikasil jugs and larger valve heads.
I replaced a 1980 engine with a 1981.
I removed the clutch carrier and installed my heavy flywheel so I could keep using my old transmission.
So everything on the back of the transmission should be the same. I used the same clutch parts as before.
The only differences now is that I have Nikasil jugs and larger valve heads.
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Where do you get these ideas?R65 Rob wrote: But what I understand is, putting additional preload on the pushrod moves the lever further away from the ideal of being parallel to the transmission case.
Ideal is parallell to the transmission case at half its travel. (ie, when the clutch handle is half way to the handgrip)
A bit more forward or a back from that is no big deal.
Right now IT IS TOO FAR FORWARD, THAT'S WHY it's touching the frame.
You won't have to bend it, the adjustment will fix it.R65 Rob wrote:Wouldn't I need to heat it up to bend it? And then, would I be changing it's temper and need to consider things de re metallica?
Wanna bet?
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Re: bending
"IF, and only IF, all else fails,"
I'm sorry, I missed that precursor.
I'm sorry, I missed that precursor.
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
SO, is it fixed yet?
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Have you ever considered....errr...mmmm............WORKING?R65 Rob wrote:I'm at work. All I can do is dream.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Re: Measuring a frame for straightness
Uh, I'm up to date on all my work. Just waiting for the next ... climax ...(when Step1 finishes and Step4 starts).gspd wrote:Have you ever considered....errr...mmmm............WORKING?R65 Rob wrote:I'm at work. All I can do is dream.
That is in about 1 hour.