Ray from Indiana wrote:Get hold of Don Beverage. He's got some R65 engines. Maybe he has some jugs ( he's have a tech day on Saturday you know )
Ray
I'm not a paid up member of ABC, and for some reason I'm not really welcomed with open arms at Indiana events anymore.
Then there's the fact that I don't really have money to burn (gasoline) traveling from Indy to his place (not too far from Chicago, IIRC) and back.
Crown Point - wow, 142 miles one way, 2 1/2 hours. I might make it by 3pm Saturday.
Clean those parts (springs, retainers, etc. with a pot scurbber...one of those greenish things you get in the dish-washing section at the grocery. Then wash in really HOT water and dry. Look for pits. Maybe you just have some fuzzy surface rust: hard steel tends to rust at first like that.
The needle bearings are likewise subject to "fuzzy-rust", but after cleaning, if you don't find any spalling on the races or pitting on the needles, oil them well, reassemble, and I believe you are good to go. They don't see rotating loading so unless they are REALLY rusted, they will be ok if clean and oiled. (WHY did they decide to put needle bearings HERE???)
Oil pressure switch...ADVANCE Auto Parts, GP Sorensen 36-5000, was about $6.24. This is a late 60's VW part.
Also: Niehoff, OP 23821 was $5.49. I think the Neihoff is available from NAPA. Pep Boys and Auto Zone should have comprable items. These also fit 2002 BMW (auto) from '74-'76. Once again, my catalogs do not differentiate Oil Press switches for any R-bikes from 74 onwards. DO use a new sealing washer of some sort. I use a copper crush washer that fits my VW auto oil plugs. Either copper or aluminum is fine. Just use a new one!!
justoneoftheguys wrote:I plan to make my own spring compressor cylinder, to use with my very large C-clamp.
Any idea what material I should use?
I figure it has to be at least 1/2" in diameter.
I've read that PVC pipe deforms after only a few uses (I could make more than one).
So I have suspicions that copper plumbing pipe will be too soft, too.
But it needs to be soft/thin enough that I can cut it with my hacksaw and rotary tool.
Brass gas/plumbing pipe would be ideal. Since it's resting against hardened steel parts, the mild steel of "iron" gas pipe would probably be just fine, but I'm paranoid/anal/careful, so I'd much prefer the brass. It would certainly be easier to cut with a hacksaw than iron pipe,but it's much more expensive. Still, if you just buy a nipple a few inches long, it shouldn't be too bad.
PVC pressure pipe will have a thicker wall, and a pvc pipe joiner may be easier to buy than a section of pipe.
There isn't a lot of pressure involved in compressing the spring sufficiently to remove the collets.
And....your homemade tool doesn't have to be round either.
If you have a vise and a good hacksaw frame and the best hacksaw blades you should be able to cut any pipe you'll buy in seconds. The blade should cost at least two dollars. Less than that and you're throwing your money away. For the thicker wall, the coarser blades work better and the finer blades are for thinner material.
I've used copper pipe cut along the long axis for years. This is a trick my dad showed me 'cause that's how they did valve retainers on Guam on F4U Corsairs. The copper is bent into a U shape, which offers plenty of strength for valve retainers. If it it'll work on a Pratt and Whitney R-2800, it'll work on an airhead.
