Boxerworks.com

Chuey wrote:

nmalozzi wrote:
As for the offer to share beers.

If youse guys get together to share beers, pictures would be welcome. If you get together to shear bears, pictures are a must!

Chuey

There'll be no bear shearing around here.

This thread has an peculiar quality about it if you read it backwards from the end. Bears, beers, and pants falling down....

bbelk wrote:This thread has an peculiar quality about it if you read it backwards from the end. Bears, beers, and pants falling down....

Peculiar indeed...

All parts are in aside from new bars and brake lines. I'm contemplating running the lines myself to save the money (my wife wants a scooter, so funds are tied up). Any advice on running stainless lines on the RT to replace the existing ones? Bonus points for links to the parts I need

Spent about an hour removing the lower fairing yesterday, and any other parts of the fairing I deemed safe to remove while I sort out the brake lines. This way the bike remains ridable, and the final removal will take less time since I've got it to bare bones at the moment. I was tinkering with the ignition... not sure how to remove it from the fairing safely. That being said, I haven't consulted the manual yet. Just thought I'd toss it here for now since I'm not ready to fully remove it from the fairing yet anyway.

I would run SS lines direct from the splitter/MC to the hard lines coming up from the caliper.

This worked when I converted an RT to an S replica

83 model? I'd run braided from the master cylinder to the splitter and splitter to steel lines x 2.

And Venhill in the UK is a good place to shop for hoses and cables

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables ... rcycle/BMW

Bonus points can go on the tab.

Spiegler Performance Parts, http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cycle ... -kits.html, is an excellent source for braided steel lines. It's a pretty simple job but pay close attention to detail like crush washers on BOTH sides of the banjo fittings. You may also want to consider installing a 'speed bleeder". It makes the job of bleeding the brakes pretty simple.

Aside from the existing brake lines being an eye sore, is there any reason I HAVE TO change the brake lines?

I know I read that new brake lines needed to be installed while I was researching, but at this point I can't seem to dig back up the resource that convinced me to change them. I know the RT lines will look a bit out of place and unfinished, but is there any reason I couldn't ride the bike with the old lines for a bit? I wasn't expecting the brake lines to cost as much, and wouldn't mind spreading the cost of the full fairing-less conversion a bit.

I like Goodridge break line kits, but ther's certainly good American brand.
But if you haven't done that job before, take some help, it's just brakes and safety

nmalozzi wrote:Aside from the existing brake lines being an eye sore, is there any reason I HAVE TO change the brake lines?

I know I read that new brake lines needed to be installed while I was researching, but at this point I can't seem to dig back up the resource that convinced me to change them. I know the RT lines will look a bit out of place and unfinished, but is there any reason I couldn't ride the bike with the old lines for a bit? I wasn't expecting the brake lines to cost as much, and wouldn't mind spreading the cost of the full fairing-less conversion a bit.

I think the argument is that the rubber in the old lines gets weak and the line actually expands some when you put on the brakes, which gives you a mushy feel and reduced performance.