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Cycle Works sells a shimming plate, if you don't have a rear cover to machine: http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=39

Tim Shepherd wrote:Cycle Works sells a shimming plate, if you don't have a rear cover to machine: http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=39

Thanks Tim, I'll do some hunting around to see if I can find one to borrow, but if not.........

Just been looking at Motobins to get an idea of what is sold for a gearbox refurb.
The obvious would be a bearing set, and gasket and seal set.
Making it more difficult, is what other parts should be on hand. That gets difficult to know without having the box opened up.

More reading!

The bloke in Beechworth (me) has a broken end cover that has been machined fairly flat. The Motobins set are top quality FAG bearings if I remember correctly and the price is pretty good. Seals are a must and you may as well do the rear main and oil pump while you're up that end of the motor. End cover gaskets are cheap - I'd get two. I changed all the springs. You also may want as many different size shims as you can afford and new bolts for the drive shaft.

Cheers
Ray

Gidday Ray, Thanks for offering to help. I really appreciate it.
Maybe you could pm me with your mobile number? Or vice versa of course.

Are you the Ray from Beechworth that I've met? I know Ray Pond from Beechworth, I've been wondering if that's you?

I've been giving thought to the best way out of this and feel that rebuilding what I have is better than risking a tranny from overseas.

I did a full seal replacement on the rear of the engine a couple of years ago, maybe a little longer, but no point missing the opportunity for another lot.

Here I go again.......
I hope to not supply Boxerworks forum with a plethora of indepth, major surgery posts as in the past.

Hey Jeff,
there is of course the alternative to the shimming plate, the squashing of something like some soft flux cored soldering wire- Jörgs page goes into it.
That was the way I was going to go.

If you can't ride it, maybe you should just open it up, then order your parts after...? at least it will stop you riding it
Good luck.

Hey Hans, I plan to further read Jörgs pages tonight....

Wow, tough decision to not ride it.
The old gal is looking really sweet too, new/s/hand tank without a whacking big dent that's been there ever since I bought it.
New/s/hand seat...new/s/hand straight front wheel, new/s/hand fairing......with paint on it! same colour too! Haven't put that on tho.

I'm gonna have to clean up the shed now and make an operating table.

After the first complete reading of Jörgs rebuild instructions, I am with Charlie in that it sounds quite doable with the required tools.
Jörgs rebuild pages are very well done with active links to photos throughout.

Next time/s I read through I will begin to take notes as required, enabling me to have all parts/materials on hand.
Of course I won't know what components other than bearings may require replacing until I'm in.

Jeff - if the RMS is almost new and working properly I wouldn't replace it.
"If it ain't broke, etc."

Jeff, it sounds like you are getting properly psyched up to go in there. The unknown can be viewed as an adventure playground or a minefield with traps for the unwary. Stealth gear, the right weapons and someone watching yer back, and you'll be fine. I could bring over my spare '74 box and a slab of beer (etc), for a practice run if you like.

The tools from Ray of Beechworth will be the clincher. The alternative method with the soft solder sounds like a nice option too - the idea comes from a South African bloke, where such resourcefulness is common. I have a decent micrometer and vernier caliper with depth gauge, BTW. I'll download Jörg's spreadsheets (apparently a help with shim calculatin') and print the whole article out with full size images in the right spots. Can even blow the pages up to fit on A3 paper for us blind old bats. Parts from Motobins take 7 to 10 days to get here, so it is still possible to get things finished by mid-September if more parts are required.

Gidday Doug, your prolly right. I think that by the time I smash the tranny back together, the last thing I'll want to look for is work that may not need doing.

It's official, my annual outback extravaganza is kaput.
Tottenham will be scratched also.
There's not a lot of time and even less money at the mo to get all this happening before mid september so...........
I may ride out to have a look at a potential pool tomorrow and stop in to Charlie's on the way home, but that'll be it until the tranny is fixed. That's about an 80 k ride. Damn, no redline.

Rather than be frightened off the job after reading Jörgs pages, I'm quietly confident that the procedure is not beyond my abilities.
End play/s seem to be the main concern. The soft solder may work but I think a shim plate/ tranny cover will be my avenue.
Being able to identify acceptable/unacceptable wear on the gears and shifting forks etc is a bit of a grey area
but I'm sure you guys will be there to assist.
This tranny after all does have over 250k's on it.

I didn't mention earlier that I also have a cement mixer for re-assembly.