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Sorry Kojones, my apologies, I assumed that everybody had a car, or other means of transportation. Just to put things into perspective, can I ask your age?
In this country motorcycles (especially BMW's) are toys and very few people actually depend on them as their primary source of transportation.
If you are low on funds, and need reliable transportation, buying any BMW product, be it 2 or 4 wheels, is a very unwise choice. Maybe you should pack it up and buy something more affordable. This bike will cost you more per kilometer in the long run than any small used japanese or korean car.

It's pretty safe to assume that eventually, sometime down the road, you will need every possible electrical component on the bike, so you might as well start ordering. Not to mention cables, seals, gaskets, carb kits, brake parts, etc..

I'm still willing to help you, but you will need all kinds of spare parts at your disposal if downtime waiting for parts is an issue. I keep almost every possible part that can eff up for my bike on the shelf just to have it when needed. This represents a very substantial investment.

As far as the charging issue goes, the good news is that your bike will run for over a thousand kms on a fully charged battery if you don't use any lights and/or electric starter (just bump start it). In a pinch you can run it normally (lights on) for many hours with a car battery strapped to the back of your seat and recharge it at night.

I was asking about your timing light because the adjustable ones are more prone malfunction.

Motorcycles are toys for most people in Finland too, but I don't need to transport large items too often, so instead of a boring car I'd rather have a motorcycle and preferably one with a character; like the Beemer, which is a few months older than I am. I had a Suzuki Savage before the Airhead, bought it as a well running bike but it turned out to be a total disaster, had to take the bottom end apart and replace almost everything. Got it sold for the same money that I invested in it so it ended up being cheaper to own than car. An old and simple bike is easier to fix than a car, too

I hope that the airhead won't blow my budget, going to take a good care of it and use it but I'd rather not spend too much money in it. It's in quite good condition overall but has seen very little use in the last ten years: https://www.dropbox.com/s/18y8g08dz9ol76m/BMW.jpg?dl=0

Small need of current is good news, the battery is brand new 28Ah unit so no problem there. Unfortunately in Finland the law requires to use lights during daytime too, but I'm quite sure they won't write a ticket.

This was too easy. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8nnz5mqwxujzq ... 8.jpg?dl=0

And yes, I know that’s an incorrect way to remove a bearing. This needs to be replaced, too much play.

I also need a new rotor bolt, someone has stripped the hex on that...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nupbwdpixu17h ... n.jpg?dl=0

Crankshaft sprocket looks quite worn but the timing seems to be correct. So, new chain, tensioner spring and crankshaft sprocket?

You don't waste any time, do you?
IMHO you should replace both sprockets as a set and while you're in there, also replace the 2 plastic guides, the tensioner piston and its spring, cover gasket and 2 washer gaskets. You'll need to pull out the camshaft to replace its sprocket which means the pushrods have to come out so you can pull the lifters away from the cam lobes with a magnet, like those inexpensive ones on the end of an antenna-like telescoping stick. You might get away with leaving the old camshaft sprocket, those ones seem to be very durable, but dealerships that have to guarantee the repair usually replace it. The sprocket itself is relatively inexpensive anyway, just a bit more time to replace it.

Your new timing chest gasket can be sealed with only grease and won't leak if all surfaces are clean. and don't forget the 2 gasket washers on the top bolts, they assure the cover won't warp.

Tip: when re-installing the chain masterlink and clip, block all the holes you see with kleenex so if you drop them, they won't fall in the engine.

gspd wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:41 am The timing advance/retard is done by centrifugal the weights in the beancan. Rotate the beancan so you get the "F" mark at 3-4000 rpm and see what happens when you let it drop back to idle.

Exactly. These engines will idle fine within 20°of the timing mark, but going down the road the timing plays a big part in the smoothness of the engine. Therefore, only time your ignition at high RPM using the F mark.

F (Z) at over 3000 is essential, but for a smooth idle and instant starting, you need it to return to S at idle.

The chain had the master link on the back, wonder if it's original chain.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hvq1s8crnr89a ... 8.jpg?dl=0

2-3mm difference at full length.

That crankshaft sprocket is quite tight fit, have to go and buy a gas torch to get it off.

Had to buy a new puller as well to get that sprocket off, it's good to have tools so no harm done there.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/84asi2vc0rst2 ... 8.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i596wwpdj05tp ... 9.jpg?dl=0

Tomorrow I'll put the cover back on, shim the rocker arms and adjust the valves and start it up. I'm quite sure the ign. timing will adjust just fine, new chain (and sprocket) look so much better.

Still no working stator, so I just have to hope that the battery has enough juice for my weekend trip.

Got it running, still have to turn the beancan fully clockwise and timing is still slightly retarded, both at F and S. Runs really well and with much less noise.

Well, now I don't have to worry about the camchain.

Tried to go for a test ride, didn't get far. Once it warmed it started stalling and similar symptoms occurred as it had before, will start easily but dies instantly.

I'm suspecting Hall effect sensor now. Wish I had a points ignition, would've been riding the whole summer.