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Sibbo wrote:I solder my welding cables , a fairly quick and simple operation .I seems the easiest and most foolproof method as far as i can see and would also be so with battery cables .Am I wrong ?

I think you are right.
Solder fills al those hairline gaps where that green grunge can grow.

Duane Ausherman wrote:With soldering there is no reason for cleaning the terminal. With a crimp, it is important, as the surface can oxidize. The inspection hole is for the inspector (me) to make sure that the copper is thrust all the way to the bottom.

The requirement for the motorcycle is so much less than the cell sites I inspect that it is unfair of me to compare. I was just wondering how you did it.

A single crimp is ok because you are soldering it. Otherwise we never accept a short terminal that only has room for a single crimp. If it is just crimped, then it is to be crimped first at the end of the terminal next to the wire. If it is crimped at the other end, it tends to force the wire out of the hole. The first crimp holds it and the second (or third or forth) really sets it well.

The lugs I use are just like factory, open on both ends to allow for full wire penetration and of course to look as stock as possible.

[quote="Duane Ausherman"]With soldering there is no reason for cleaning the terminal. With a crimp, it is important, as the surface can oxidize. The inspection hole is for the inspector (me) to make sure that the copper is thrust all the way to the bottom.

When you solder something like this, that is, so large of a wire, do you need to use a torch? I'm planning on going to the welding supply place and seeing if I can buy some wire. Maybe they'll have terminals as well. Any advice will be appreciated.

Chuey

Yes Chuey,I have never found a better way of getting enough heat input for solder on something so big without specialized tools. Propane torch laying about would do fine.

Might I recommend using a eutectic blend of solder? Tin & lead, 63% and 37% respectively with a rosin core flux. I keep both rosin solder paste and liquid that I mainly use on other things that can be useful here too. Quite like sweating copper pipe, the flux sure pulls the solder into your work, such as in this application. If you have the rosin flux, you can go with a solid eutectic solder instead as well...

- Silver "electrical" solder like is commonly found today, takes far more heat to melt (and I HATE IT WITH A PASSION! Mainly because its re-melt temperature is then absurd if something needs removal later on.) If you fear lead poisoning as I suppose we should, use latex or similar gloves (always a good precaution anyway.)

Just my $0.02 worth with regard to the question asked...

Chuey wrote:When you solder something like this, that is, so large of a wire, do you need to use a torch? Chuey

My torch of choise for battery cables is one of those thin tight flame butane torches. With the flame being so fine and so intense I can get the heat where I want it. A regular propane torch, the kind you might use to start charcoal or solder copper pluming has a big fat flame that roars. The roaring is OK, but with that big fat flame, even turned down, I would have a hard time getting the heat exactly where I want it. It's awfully easy to bubble the cable's rubber jacket, and even lighting it on fire if you're totally careless.

If I had to choose between a propane torch and no torch I would go for a big electric soldering iron (though I haven't actually used a soldering iron for battery cable making). In the absence of a big soldering iron I would then use the propane torch, being as careful as I can to keep the heat away from the rubber jacket.

An oxy acetylene torch, with a small tip, and turned down to a modest flame would probably work just fine.


Ken

Ken in Oklahoma wrote:

Chuey wrote:When you solder something like this, that is, so large of a wire, do you need to use a torch? Chuey

My torch of choise for battery cables is one of those thin tight flame butane torches. With the flame being so fine and so intense I can get the heat where I want it. A regular propane torch, the kind you might use to start charcoal or solder copper pluming has a big fat flame that roars. The roaring is OK, but with that big fat flame, even turned down, I would have a hard time getting the heat exactly where I want it. It's awfully easy to bubble the cable's rubber jacket, and even lighting it on fire if you're totally careless.

If I had to choose between a propane torch and no torch I would go for a big electric soldering iron (though I haven't actually used a soldering iron for battery cable making). In the absence of a big soldering iron I would then use the propane torch, being as careful as I can to keep the heat away from the rubber jacket.

An oxy acetylene torch, with a small tip, and turned down to a modest flame would probably work just fine.


Ken

Good notion(s) Ken.

I have a mini-tip for the propane's and they are and have been widely available; guess I made the assumption everyone had them (I should not have.) I as well have one of the aforementioned butane's laying about and think it a much better solution, though I have only used the propane type in the past.

Good luck finding any iron that will solder a big connector onto welding cable (or the equivalent) well, or without melting the insulation (and highly probably NOT the solder) There are some specialized electric heating devices for this, but I don't think that is what was really asked - looking for a simple solution...

Oxy-Acetylene will surely do it, but wow - surely more fuel and very little oxygen (without being merely a yellow flame )would be the ticket at as low as one could go with your pencil tip.

With proper heat applied by whatever, a solder-pot while completely unnecessary, I find can make things go smoothly and reduce the heat one uses. Heat wire, dip in solder pot to tin and let cool. Insert in terminal end, re-heat (both pieces together) and flow the rest of the solder in as the final step. Just a thought for those with one laying around; certainly not a prerequisite; this need not be any more difficult or involved than is necessary... Enjoy!

I'm with dwire.
A small butane torch from an electronics store will cost $30-40.
Perfect for small gauge wire soldered joints, perfect for battery cables too.

Yeah--- Good advice indeed. Since you posted that price, I'll offer up I have a 'UBER-CHEAP' one of those purchased from Harbor Freight (NO, NOT AN ENDORSEMENT!) If you can get past the "Day-Glo Orange" color, one can save a lot on that price... I cannot recall the exact price now, but I believe it was well under $10.00 easily at the time of purchase.

Best wishes with whatever technique you chose!