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Airbear wrote:

FUTURE wrote: What guage wire did you use for the extra earths? Why did you have to add these?

I used 20 Amp wire. Reason - the electron path relies on going through gritty oily joins and bolts from the tranny to engine to timing chest and frame. Poor little electrons don't stand a chance. This fix has been recommended by Rob Frankham, GSPD and others. It really makes a difference. You just need 4 ring terminals with 6mm holes, some wire and crimpers. Blue terminals suit the 20 Amp wire. At the diode board end put the terminal on one of the metal support legs to the diode board. Frame earth is near the coils.

So I would run one wire from the trannie to the frame. Then frame t diode board mount? Did I get that right?

+1 on the aditional ground wires. I upgraded my /5 to a /6 280w alternator and added the gorunds Charlie mentioned plus an extra + wire from the doide to the battery side of the starter. The voltmeter pops right up to 14 below 2000 RPMs with the H4 headlight on.

Well worth the hour or two that it takes.

So without the extra wires the system is grounding through the engine and frame only? Sorry if I sound dumber than dumb but anything to do with wire and that black magic stuff flowing through wires does my head in.

FUTURE wrote:
So I would run one wire from the trannie to the frame. Then frame t diode board mount? Did I get that right?

I ran a ground wire from the - diode bolt (top I think) back to one of the nuts that holds the trans to the engine inside the aircleaner. That gives another path from the doide to the engine, trans, battery and, when you add the ground wire to frame, to the main harnes.

Also check the condition of the main ground connector of the wireing harness. On the older bikes it was on the left hand coil. It can develop high resistance under load and cause flickering lights or the gen light to glow dimliy with the headlights on.

It never hurts to be well grounded.

I couldn't get Rob Frankham's site up. Just google him later and read his article.

FUTURE wrote:So without the extra wires the system is grounding through the engine and frame only? Sorry if I sound dumber than dumb but anything to do with wire and that black magic stuff flowing through wires does my head in.

Yes, which was fine when new, but after 20 or 30 years the tiniest bit of corrosion and dirt finds it's way between the diode board and front cover and the front cover and the engine and the trans and so on. If you have stripped your whole bike down and cleaned it all to new then this won't be needed. In reality this is much faster to do, and easier to maintain anualy than stripping your bike.

Garnet wrote:

FUTURE wrote:So without the extra wires the system is grounding through the engine and frame only? Sorry if I sound dumber than dumb but anything to do with wire and that black magic stuff flowing through wires does my head in.

Yes, which was fine when new, but after 20 or 30 years the tiniest bit of corrosion and dirt finds it's way between the diode board and front cover and the front cover and the engine and the trans and so on. If you have stripped your whole bike down and cleaned it all to new then this won't be needed. In reality this is much faster to do, and easier to maintain anualy than stripping your bike.

Thank you kind sir. Now I understand. Next project on the bike is this then. Steering head bearing still on the list to do.

Airbear wrote:Glad to hear it, Biggie. Yep, those pools of white light each side of the road are really useful in the twisties. The roos will all need shades. The heat given out by the miserable yellow beam in the middle is such a waste. I'd really like a more efficient, whiter beam there.

Also, warning! (sound of klaxon here). Hans of Melburg Alert. He's making his way down the coast. Expect a possible invasion any day now.

Hans rang today while I was in town having lunch with some visiting American RTW riders from ADV. He's due here any time now.

Hey Ross,

Here is Rob Frankham's page on grounding: http://www.robfrankham.co.uk/bike/earthing_article.htm

Ross -
What Rob F. did is pretty much what I did -
With 10 gauge wire, diode ground to frame ground (near the coil), continuing on to battery negative.
I also put in a voltage regulator from http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm and solid diode mounts.
I often run with high beam and grip heaters in spring and fall. For a couple of weeks I would check the battery after riding and it was always 13+ volts.
My generator warning light would often flicker at idle, now it never does.
It is a relatively simple and cheap fix.

Thanks guys,

I already have fitted a voltage regulator bought from that site. Solid mount diode boards I will look at getting.